Hoover washing machine not spinning?

Excellent advice! Drum not spinning but brushes and belt OK. Inspected the motor control unit and found a burnt termination on PCB behind one of the relays. 5 minute soldering job, using a 20mm piece of copper wire to join relay pin to the track, and it was back up and running. Not bad for a machine I bought just before moving into my first house in '99.

Dan75
February 2017

Had the same problem myself - fixed it this evening with the help of these forums - took the motor control board out - two bad joints on the relay (there must be a design fault here) had to link a piece of wire from the relay pin to reach the track. Made two nice soldered joints and tested and it ran perfectly. We had an engineer out from a big company that thought the problem was the program timer and was trying to get us a new one - when it could not be sourced for our machine they said we had to buy a new washing machine. All it needed was two solder joints repaired.

Regards to all

DerekE
June 2014

Yes.. the second person to have a dry joint on the motor control board...and again on the relay pin.. took 5 secs to solder and good for anorher 11 years!

R.Wood
June 2012

I had the same problem, ie the drum was turning ok to wash but would not do a short or long spin.

I took off the rear cover of the machine, and located the control box in the bottom left hand corner ,near the motor.
I removed the bolt holding the white box, then removed the 3 connectors from the board inside the box.
On inspection i found a bad soldered joint underneath one of the black relays.
I re soldered the bad joint and reassembled. it now works great full spin and all.

John Woods
January 2012

Thanks for that - have checked brushes and replaced the tacho-coil. If I remove the tacho the motor runs straight upto full speed and pulses fpor a while before stopping so I guess the problem nust be the control module as the aramture looks OK and the wiring appears ok.

James H
April 2009

I have had this issue before and I checked the belt (it was dry and cracked obviously stretched and no longer providing the tension required to turn the drum).

tequila
March 2009

Power off, drag machine out onto the floor, remove the back cover and locate the motor. May help if the machine is tilted at an angle or laid on its side. Check out the carbon brushes in the motor. Theyre graphite blocks which transfer mains power to the copper segments of the motor -Theyre possibly worn down. They're quite cheap parts and easy to replace. The brushes are at the other end of the motor from the drive pulley. The holders are plastic or bakelite and are generally held in with screws or plastic clips.
There are generally 2 ways that motor brushes can be fitted
1) screwed onto the outside of the motor - undo the screw, remove the old brush, remove wire attached to brushes, screw the NEW ONE INTO PLACE and repeat for the remaining brush.When brushes are secure NOW is the time to RELEASE them free of the brush holders by bending back the tab on the side of the brush holder. Reattach both brush wires.
2) the brushes are fitted up a slot and held in with a plastic barb - Remove the brush wires with a short stubby screwdriver and a stiff piece of hooked wire. Insert the screwdriver up the slot and behind the plastic barb, press enough to make the barb clear the slot, holding it in this position hook the brush out. If stiff you can use a thin pair of long nosed pliers to pull out remove old brush. Insert the new brushes until the barb holds them in position. Free them from of the brush holders by bending back the tab on the side of the brush holder. Reattach both brush wires.
Also, look at the copper segments they run on to check for burning or pitting. If the segments are burnt or damaged you need a replacement motor or a replacement armature (motor part) if you can source one. Check the tacho coil for breakages in the connections. The tacho coil is a small generator coil on the end of the motor which provides a voltage proportional to the speed of the motor. This voltage is fed back to the speed control module to enable the machine to check the rotation, direction and speed of the motor. Check all wires and connectors generally for internal breakages - caused by movement of the wiring loom attached to the drum. Over a long period of time the wire strands inside the insulator break through metal fatigue. Although the outside of the wire appears ok the internal is open circuit. Pull on each individual wire - if theyre ok internally, they shouldnt stretch. The timer can cause problems of this type, check for burnt connections or of course it could be an internal break in the motor itself, which would require replacement of the motor. Could also be a fault with the motor control board or "module". Replacement with a known good unit only real test unfortunately. Exercise extreme caution in this area - full mains voltage present at serveral places on the board. Power off and disconnect machine when replacing any motor component.

Repair and service your own washing machine. Go to www.2ndwave.co.uk/manual.html

dannyboy
March 2009