cutter leak?

I agree with Pete. Clean out the joint and make sure its nice and dry. There is what is known as an 'all weather' silicone that will stick and seal even if not completely dry. You will no doubt have trouble undoing the connection bolts due to rust, so if you run the sealant around the joint on the inside it dosent hurt to run it around the outside of the gutter joint also to provide a double seal. Make sure you have the correct colour sealant for this though.

Scott
August 2007

First don't let anyone stand near the work area as delapidated gutter can fall on mass, I've experienced it in 20yrs reparing /replacing guttering.

Well start with OGEE which is flat backed and fancy gutter front. Screws hold it on facia at back.
1. Whack a 150mm nail into facia under collar of joint your working on for support when screws and collar bolt free.

2. Cut off any bolt surplus stick through the nut so when undoing nut it hasn't got far to go.
3. On the next section that's sitting in the collar you've supported release the first back screw.
4. Gently tap screwdriver between the joint from underneath. wedge up the spigot section gently and not too high hold in place with another nail. clean out the collar and tap gently any putty on the spigot. Re-join using putty for metal, press two together and fit new bolt. tighten but don't over do it job done rescrew backs job done.

Half round forget the support nails if the brackets are in good nick. same as above for prep of joint.
Post how you get on.

rob
May 2007

Metal rainwater gutter joints used to be sealed with red lead putty in days gone by, modern mastik compounds are better as they allow the joint to move with expansion and contraction. Silicone bathroom sealant works well and is available in clear or black or white or ...... most colours. Best to undo the bolted joint and clean out the old sealant and make sure its all dry before reassembly.

Pete
May 2007