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Mend Whirlpool Dryer Switch Press

How do I fix Whirlpool AWZ121 dryer switch?

I have a Whirlpool AWZ121 which has a switch that you press and hold until the dryer starts and then you let it go. Unfortunately now you can press and hold to start the dryer but when the switch is released, the dryer stops. The only way to keep the dryer going is to hold the button. Thanks for any answers.

redimp
October 2006
I'd like to thank Tony and Kevin too. Like a fool I've just realised that I could have taken photos while I was doing it. Too late now, it's back together. But I'll give a long wordy description of what I did. Hopefully the more words I use the more likely it is to get picked up by search engines.

So, I've got a Whirlpool AWZ 121 tumble dryer, with a start switch that wasn't latching.

First, take the top off. There are two self tapping screws (on mine they are T20 Torx) which attach it on the rear. And clips on the front.

You can now see the business. Like the others, you don't need to remove all of the front panel to do the job. In fact I couldn't work out how to detach it at the timer end anyway. What there are are a lot of plastic clips which attach the plastic front to a steel sub assembly onto which the switches are mounted. Detach that as much as you can.

Take out the white switch. There are a couple of plastic clips on the left hand side (viewed from front) that you'll need to push in to get it out. Then lift it up. Now you can see down. There is a brown thing which is spring loaded. And a sort of mini maze of plastic. In the end of the brown thing is a hole, into which one end of the wire should go, the other end into the maze.

I actually pulled out the brown thing, to save having to take the white button off, but careful you don't lose the spring. Then you need to make a U shaped bit of metal, using a (thinnish) paper clip. EXACTLY as per Kevin's dimensions. The 15.5 mm is the bottom of the U, the short bits are the uprights.

Thinking about it, you don't actually have to take the switch out to fix it, just the electrical bit. But it does mean you'll be putting the re-modelled paper clip back in from the top, so get your strong specs on and good light.

But if you have taken it out then, to quote Haynes, 'replacement is the reversal of removal' (yeah, right!)

Leave the top off while you test it. But careful with that electricity. And remember that drum will spin.

Mike
October 2012
I should like to thank Tony for advice about the paper clip which gave me the encouragement to repair the start switch – new switches are not cheap, around £30. Removing the front panel is not at all easy but is best started from the left side (looking from the front). Much of the left side of the front panel has to be loosened (unclip from the bottom) before the side with the timer, as this side has some plastic posts that need to be un-slotted by waggling the panel. Once it is freed by a few inches, the switch can be removed. It may be best to unclip the button from the switch to aid removal. Once the switch assembly with door linkage is removed, the upper half of the switch that contains the electrical contacts has to be unclipped from the lower half that contains the latching mechanism. You will then be able to see the "staple like" wire that runs in plastic grooves and forms the latch. In my case the staple was broken, so the two pieces were carefully removed and aligned to form a template for cutting and bending a paperclip. The straight part of the wire needs to be approx 15.5 mm long with one end bend down 5.5 mm and the other end bent down 4 mm. Place the long end in the small hole on the push button slider just in front of the spring, and rest the small end in the grooves that forms the latch. The top part of the switch may then be clipped back; ensuring that the black door operated slider is well back to clear the rear micro-switch. Check that the button now latches when it is pressed and releases when pressed once more or released by the door slider. Replace the switch in the panel and refit its button. The panel is returned as removed, engaging the timer side first. Hope this helps a few people – it’s a tedious job, but satisfying to see it working again.

Kevin
June 2011
I simply screwed a small screw in the space beside the button while holding it in--this jams the button in the on position--its like that for 2 years. I just let opening/closing the door be the on/off for the machine

Andy
April 2009
I've done this twice before but not recently. So from memory...

Switch off Dryer at mains. Remove covers to gain access to rear of control panel. Unscrew the panel. When I did this I did not remove the whole panel but created enough room to release the Start switch from behind. The locking mechanism is control by what looks like a large staple. I made a replacement by bending and cutting a paper clip. Positioning the clip so that the button works requires a bit of trial and error. (I think the Gentle button is the same so you could check that). The added complication on the Start button is that opening the door releases it. Be careful to position the actuator for this when you put the button back in the panel. You need some patience for this (and several paper clips) Good Luck.

Tony
February 2008

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