I looked inside and the main nylon cog on the top is as worn as the steps of a cathedral.. (all the threads in the middle are concave) I think I've worn it out :(
In answer to Helens enquiry about how easy it is to use for denim jeans. Fortunately I can still use the straight stitch needed.
I've used my RS2000 for all sorts of things, curtains, loose suite covers and other soft furnishings, wedding dresses, jeans, making leather and canvas bags as well as hundreds of regular dress making projects. Must say though I never got on with the needle threader and very rarely used the button hole facillity
I found it an excellent all rounder until now. You will find though that using the correct needles a great help.
If you are sewing the regular shop bought jeans in a medium weight I would normally use a 90 jeans/denim needle for the hems , if you cant unpick or cut off the original thick hem go for a 100 or even a 110 needle as I found these will go through the thickness of the original hem +the extra layer of denim and also will take the stronger and thicker 'for jeans'/ demim stitching thread so if you get the right colour match to the existing top stitching no-one can tell they have been shortened.
If they are narrow leg jeans or even those new denim 'jeggins' it's much easier to clip off the front bit of the machine (the bit you have to remove to put the bobbin in) then you can just run them round on the machine arm as you would a cuff or the tiny openings on baby clothing.
I've no idea why its called a 3D though some-one once told me it could be because the embroidery stitches when worked in satin stitch stood away from the fabric however this is so for most machines that do embroidery so your guess is as good as mine
Although I'm not a professional dressmaker I have been an enthusiastc amature for the last 40years so I hope this info helps give you a starting point for your jeans Helen
Lizzy
April 2010