Hello there
The first time I looked it had me thinking as well???
I phone my mate at the local VW workshop I visit them to do wheel alignment, so I know the right guy to ask.
He said look harder??
1st open rear doors, 2nd plastic cover vertical panel thats under the rubber cable tube REMOVE use flat blade screwdriver under top edge, you may think we're going to brake it! hidden under this panel is 2 screws remove the screws then push lamp unit to the out side of van its held in 2 ball sockets, un-clip wiring connector bulb holder is held in by acouple of no.7??? torx bit screws and after all that its the top bulb.
Easy? and just think on this? in main land europe you've got to carry spare bulbs but what use is that if you need to find a VW garage to change the b----- bulb,
I hope this is of some help
RA
September 2009