How to fix gearchange ldv maxus van 2006?

The solution discovered in the case of gear knob lever shearing off after inspecting the in cab gear shift housing ? is a few things, 1. get a replacement housing with the gearstick attached , 2 , the gear pin lever in the middle of that housing has a bushing that wears out , 3, the 10mm METAL E CLIP which holds the cable on to that lever pin can easily wear and come loose ,4 in the engine bay where the gear cables move the metal arms on the top of the transmission housing also have a bushing ,so i have ordered a replacement in cab gear shift housing with gear stick attached , and three Topran TOPRAN 109 119 001 bushings , and i will also remove the gearbox detent springs because they get weaker over time, the cool dog detent springs are the ones i will be putting into that gearbox housing as replacements, and also at the same time lubricate the metal levers that select the gears from the cables at the engine transmission end , oh and also new gear cables in the uk are severely a rip off price, because if you look on ALIBABA you can buy a pair of complete cables costing less than £30 complete which are the same cables for the MAXUS V80 , and no they do not cost £200 plus either, do not be fleeced by rip off artists on those

Kenny Beakspaddock
January 2026

the gear stick in the cab ' is attached at its base by welded means ' my stick sheared off of the selector housing ' so to repair may be possible but i doubt it would last ' so a replacement complete one with gear shift stick makes some sense ' oh and the assembly is held on by 4 ' 10mm nuts ' so you have to remove the dash surround from beneath speedo etc and the dash part with the heater controls on to access the gear selection housing assembly ' not a good design ' and a used unit likely wont be much better either as they are all used' thus likely worn ' so sws of norwich may be my next move ' and have the whole thing re made from stainless steel ' stronger ' last longer '

Pierre PintDribbler piddleton
December 2025

reading these things i see the following, 1 . the gearbox sloppiness in shift lever means you may need to remove the dash panel and have a close look at the gear cables on the gear shift lever , see what is worn out and if possible dismantle it and replace the working parts with better ones, and lubricate the cables and the mechanisms on the gearbox in the engine bay , check for sideways movement on gear arms brackets , and so on ,

Helen Queef
July 2025

might be a good idea to flush the gearbox oil after draining it , using a gearbox flush liquid , then refill it with the best correct spec gear box oil you can afford , for this van , it's , 75/w/90 S X G L5 specified , torque settings are on CD service manuals LDV MAXUS V80 £20 from re-mobilize uk


Jez Mulldreen
July 2025

i agree spray a decent oil lubricating or grease lubricating spray in to the cable outer so it runs on the inner down to the tran-saxle cable ends , do same on the gear linkage there on back of gearbox housing under neath at rear of engine about near where the air box big pipe passes behind the gearbox , you'll see there are two arms and two cables which go up in to where the holes for them are located so you see the cables running up to the center area of the bulkhead center , which is where the gear cables come in to the cabin , and then fit to the gear mechanism attached to the gear shift lever with the black rounded face , then blast me boy , you're in the right area , get them sorted out with lubrication, i drained gearbox oil and refilled it , 75w90 gl5 manual gearbox oil, 2.35 liters of it , tightened drain plug after draining oil for about an hour , tightened it to 46.5 N m on torque wrench , filler plug cant remember but i recall doing about 45 N m , then i sprayed wd40 on the gear linkage , and on the gear shift mechanism , and on the inner cables from inside vehicle at beginning ,

Jez Mulldreen
July 2025

penetrating spray to gear lever pins behind the gear lever shaft behind the radio after removing radio, spray a wd40 penetrating spray or t on the cable links pins bolts and mechanism , do same on trans axle, if poss get straw to contact top of gear cable outer starting points , or a n oil , let gravity do the lubricating work on the inner cables , if oil use a suitable one for lubricating steel inner cables

Lugbold gruddock
July 2025

similar issue is heater resistor must be faulty , as speed controller only works on position 4 , not 1 2 or 3 ,
remove the blower motor , locate resixtor unit , use a hand held magnifier to identify any burnt area and resistor type , then disconnect wires from connector points on resistor pack, replace resistor with higher rating , by de soldering the resistor from the pack or box or unit , and then reconnect wires to original locations which you listed in Colors one at a time before you remove them wires from the black connector connectors , think the part as a diagram in electrics from service manual , is IP59 on circuit diagram number 74.01, as for part number hmm seems to be a reluctance for those to be found, oddly , some one said ford focus, the engine is ITALIAN V M Moturi , 2.5 common rail diesel 2499cc , so what we need is a compatible electrical components list of switches units, connectors, fuses, resistors , Jeep engine vehicles may be possible for electric parts resistors heater blower resistors ,

Lugbold gruddock
July 2025

for myself the issue is that the gearchanging is stiff and awkward forward and back movement on gearchange lever in the van , so I shall try to adjust the cables , and will refill the gearbox oil using the best oil GL5 75w/90 type fully synthetic, Castrol, Mobil, or Liqui Moli oil.

Ernie
June 2025

stiff changing gear lever , may need to replace gearbox detent springs , which there are 3 of , and and an LDV MAXUS owner has a kit you can get Costs £ maximum £18.00 ,
comes with instructions including what size spanners or sockets are needed to do that , and no you do not need to remove the gearbox at all to do that repair, also have a close look at the gear cables where they fit on the gearbox, see if they are knackered , if not you might be able to adjust them, there is a video from REMBILISE on YOUTUBE lasting 3min 11 seconds , explaining how to adjust cables,

Ernie
June 2025

First check that your clutch slave cylinder is not leaking and that when you start and move van in 1st gear , the van moves when clutch pedal is just starting to lift with your left foot on the clutch pedal; Then stop van running put in neutral, now you know if the clutch is leaking or not,
For gear selection stiffness , i drained the gearbox oil and refilled it , but will do that again, using fully synthetic gearbox oil 75w/90 GL5 gearbox oil needing 3 litres ,and use a long tube so you can let gravity cause the oil to travel from the bottle into the tube which will fit through the gaps from looking from top of engine with bonnet up , fitting the end of the tube into the hole where you fill the gearbox oil up , using 2.35 litres of that oil to refill the gearbox ,the drain plug Nm setting used by myself was between 43 Nm and %0Nm, so 46.5 on a torque wrench and the size needed is a 24mm socket for the drain plug underneath in the middle of the transmission housing, the filler plug as i had no small torque wrench i looked in manual and it said 40nm, so i tightened it using a 17mm socket and wrench , the filler plug bolt is just above the passenger side driveshaft on the side facing the inside of the passenger wheel from laying under trhe van an using eyes to look at the position ,

Ernie
June 2025