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How do I repair Bosch WFF2001 motor?

My Bosch WFF2001 stopped working - water went in and out but drum didn't turn. I cleaned the connectors to the motor and it ran once or twice more but then stopped again. Cleaned them again and it now runs again. Looking inside while it is running there is a crackle and significant arcing from the motor - indicator of brushes worn out I believe. How do I check and change the brushes? Do I need to take the motor out? Is it safe to run it on in this state (have a family with small children so washer runs 1-2 times a day)?

Simon Y
August 2004
Thanks so much, Ron Yorke, your description of the detail of the job was really helpful - thanks!

Kevin Ball
October 2013
Thanks for the clear instructions Ron, I've used them with very slight changes to replace the brushes on our WFF1400.

Nick
October 2010
This really depends upon the fault. The most likely is worn carbon brushes, and replacing these is a relatively easy job. However, if this is not the problem, replacing the motor is the only real solution, if it is, indeed, the motor.
To replace the brushes, you will need to gain access to the back of the machine, as follows: First, make sure that the machine is turned off at its supply, and the power plug has been removed from its socket.
Use a flat screwdriver to remove the panel at the bottom of the front of the machine. Do this by turning the two slot-headed securing 'screws' 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, and ease the panel away front-wards. To the bottom left, you will see the access to the pump filter. Do not open this, but feel inside the opening near it, and you will find the drain point - a length of rubber tube with a valve at the end. Get a shallow receptacle that will hold about a half-litre (pint) of liquid. Place the end of the tube over the receptacle, and open the valve by pulling on the end. Keep the end of the tube fairly low, and the flow should end fairly quickly. If the container fills first, close the valve whilst the water is still flowing, and empty the container. Repeat this as necessary until there is no more water coming out. Close the valve, and return the tube to its original place. Do not replace the front panel yet.
Ease the machine away from the wall, and gain access to the back of the machine. If possible, do not remove any of the tubes connecting the hot and cold water supplies, and the waste pipe. If you do have to disconnect any of these, make sure that the supply valve for the supply to the machine is turned off before slackening the 3/4" BSP connections, and that you have a bowl are other container the catch the contents of the hoses once they have been undone. Also, be prepared for a spurt of water as the connection is initially slackened. The waste tube should not present a problem, but always be ready in case some water has been trapped inside, and then gets released when you lower the end of the tube.
Use a No.2 Pozidrive screwdriver to remove the seven screws holding the back panel in place; there are also four TORX-type screws to be removed as well. The panel should not fall as it is held on two catches pressed into the upper casing above the rear panel. Lift the back panel slightly to enable the panel to be taken away.
The motor can now be seen at the lower right. The wiring is long enough to allow changing of the brushes, but removing the connector is very easy. First, remove the green & yellow earth wire from the motor frame, and very carefully cut the plastic tyraps that hold the cables to the motor casting.
There are two bolts holding the motor in place: one is easily seen near the motor pulley. This is the adjustment-securing bolt. The other is the front side of the 'motor pivot', and can be felt to the front of the back frame, above the motor. Use a 13mm socket to slacken the motor adjustment-retaining bolt. Remove the belt by sliding the belt towards yourself as you turn the drum pulley. You will note that the drum pulley has no grooves but the motor pulley has. This is to stop the belt from slipping off during normal running. Once the belt is out of the way, use the socket wrench to slacken the pivot bolt. Supporting the motor in one hand, remove the adjustment bolt, then the pivot bolt. Look at the wiring connector, and you will see two plastic strips on the side opposite where the wires enter. Squeeze these towards the wires, and whilst doing so, gently pull the connector off the motor. The motor can now be removed from inside the machine.
Place the motor on some old newspaper or the like as carbon dust is very difficult to clean up, sometimes nearly impossible. You can now see the brush holders at the commutator end of the motor, opposite the drive pulley end. Carefully pull the wire connections off the tab of the brush retainer. The wire will stay in place as part of the brush holder. Push the wiring tab towards the brush. It will slide to the right about 2.5 to 3 mm, and then lift up to about 45 degrees. The tab can now be pulled out of the slot holding it in place, and then the brush can be extracted. You will note that the brush is shaped with the longer side on the left side. Being very careful not to break the brush connection wire, clean as much dirt and carbon dust as possible away from the area. Do not use any solvent cleaning materials. Take a new brush, and be prepared for a fiddly job getting it in place and secure. First, look at the brush-holder, and notice the slot in which the brush connection tab was held - this is where the shorter end of the retainer is to be located. Next, take the brush, and ensuring that it is the right way around, make sure that it slides in and out of the brush-holder without any binding. Slide the brush fully home, and gently press in the spring and the retainer. Once the retainer is in the first slot, push the long end down and pull it to the left to lock the brush in place. Taking care not to unlock the retainer again, carefully reconnect the wire to the retainer.
Turn over the motor and repeat the brush replacement procedure for the other brush.
Replace the motor back inside the machine casing. Carefully reconnect the motor wiring connector. Take the motor, and slide the pivot back into its hole in the frame, and refit the pivot bolt, but do not tighten it. Put the belt back on the main pulley, then carefully onto thye motor pulley, making sure that the vees and grooves line up. Allow the weight of the motor to tension the belt. Insert and tighten the adjustment bolt, and then tighten the pivot bolt.
Refit the earth wire to the motor earth. Use a pair of new tyraps to re-secure the cable to the motor frame.
Refit any hoses that had to be removed, and check they are secure before turning the water back on. Do not forget the waste tube. Plug in the machine, and test it by doing a short spin. If all is well, take the back panel, and re-hang it from the two catches. refit, but do not tighten until they are all in place, the four Torx and seven Pozidrive screws. Reinstall the machine into its original position, and give it a full test by doing a wash cycle. Check the drain tube in the front for leakage before replacing the plastic cover. Clean up the mess, and enjoy a celebratory drink!
If you think this is rather detailed, I have just done it on our machine, so it’s all fresh in my mind! I wish you the success I had.

Ron Yorke
May 2010
Andy

I have just used these excellent instructions to change the brushes on my WFF 1401 which now runs perfectly. The brushes were down to the copper!

Thanks.

Jem
April 2005
I've just had to carry this out on my WFF2001, and you have to remove the motor to get at the brushes.
1) unplug from the power socket and remove rear panel
2) check drum belt tension by measuring how much you can deflect it and make a note so that you get it right when reassembling then remove the belt by gently turning the drum wheel
3) remove earth wire from motor, unclip the motor wiring harness and cut the two cable ties to release the harness
4) remove the two 13mm hex bolts that secure the motor (one at the front, which sets drum belt tension, and one behind the bracket to the right - you need a short spanner/wrench for this one)
5) pull the motor towards you to slide it out from the machine
6) the brushes are located one at each side of the motor within white plastic rectangular housings
7) slide off the black wire from the brass-coloured connector at the top of the brush
8) push the brass connector forwards (away from where the wire was connected) and then up and back towards you to release the brush from the four retaining clips and withdraw it from the housing, making a note of which way round the angled end of the brush goes
9) insert the new brush and carefully compress its spring until you can slide the top of the brush (the metal bit) into the retaining clips
10) refit the black wire making sure it is pushed all the way in (this secures the brush as well)
11) repeat for the other brush
12) replace the motor, refit the belt (resetting its tension) and reclip the motor harness using two new cable ties and refitting the earth wire

Andy H
August 2004
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