cambelt?

This is quite a long-winded procedure on these engines which will be difficult to cover in any meaningful detail here. It also depends what tensioner/idler/adjuster setup you have on the engine as to whether the cam pulley has to come off or not, and this dictates whether you need to lock the cam at the pulley end with a pin, or at the tail end with a plate. There are no timing marks on any of the pulleys, so you need to use the proper tools (you can safely use a drill bit instead of the fuel pump timing pin though)

Some general info: You should change the fuel pump drivebelt at the same time as well as both tensioners and the idler/eccentric adjuster (whichever is fitted). Carefully check out the water pump as well and swap it out if you are in any doubt or there's even the slightest roughness or play in the pulley. Water pump failure on these engines will usually break or detension the timing belt (same result, smashed cylinder head), so don't chance it.

You don't need special tools to tension the new belts. All tensioner types are self-tensioning. The later belts (which yours probably is) are adjusted by a separate eccentric which will pull two arrows into line on the tensioner. The early ones are just spring loaded and you let them snap against the belt and retighten the locking bolt up. In both cases this should be done with the cam pulley bolt (or bolts on the early ones) slackened off half a turn.

These engines are notorious for belt failure, so it's important the procedure is rigidly followed and everything is done properly. If the belt fails in service you will definitely need a new cylinder head, and possibly new pistons as well. You never "get away with it" on these.

DP
May 2006