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ryobi whipper snipper will not start?

model rwt285ds whipper snipper does not start.has new spark plug cleaned air filter .checked spark at plug and fuel flow to carby all ok. when it starts after twenty tries it runs for a few seconds and stops .what is the fault

robby
March 2006
"I am going to buy an Electric one"..... my advice - DONT! They are a disaster to start. Ryobi seem to have this problem more than most. I bought a McCullogh at another property and it starts no problem with a few cord pulls. No more Ryobi..!

Tom
February 2013
Hello ,my Ryobi once started will not run at full rpm ,
I have to hold the throttle in a few seconds then it
will rotate .
Once she is warmed up and ready to use I dont get the full rpm and power ,it will do the job with full throttle but runs only on about 3/4 of the revs that it should do .Can some one advise on what the problem could be .
Thanks ,
Robert

Robert Glisenti
September 2012
My whipper snipper is electric . The batteries are new and it still does not work. Yes I have charged it.

Andre
June 2012
Don't Forget The Low & High Adjustement Screws On
Older Type Snipper Carbs. They Play A Very Important Part-To!!!!!!

Olly.
September 2011
a method i use on all whippers
prime as directed
close choke
pull cord a few times
open choke
hold throttle open
pull cord it may take a couple of tries
but it will then start
works for me
and i use them a lot more than average

kev
November 2010
my ryobi whipper snipper starts fine but the head wont turn

Ross Collins
February 2010
Pull the muffler off and check that the gauze filter is not all gunked up with carbon. This will happen if you are not careful with the fuel oil ratio.

Roger Wilson
January 2010
Thanks Kenny

Khaled
June 2009
The whipper snipper will start and idle on choke but as soon as i put it on half choke it will rise in idl, however as soon as it put it on no choke, it will die.. for some reason it like runs outta fuel when it isnt on choke.. help???? i think the carby might be blocked or something..

Jerome
March 2009
First ALWAYS use high octane petrol, it has detergent addatives that low end petrol doesn't have. It keeps the tiny jets clean, the major cause of poor running and cutting out. Starting a Ryobi can be a bitch even when new. following the start procedure to the letter doesn't solve this. After pumping the bulb full , give it a further 3 or 4 pumps, full choke , two pulls, then half choke. It should fire. If not ,open the throttle fully to clear it and then close choke to keep it running. They take a while to warm up properly even in sunny Australia. also set the plug gap at 20 thou. max. I learned all this the hard way. [ AS ALWAYS ]

Sean
February 2009
the b***** things are impossible for a woman to start. They just expect you to pull the wretched cord a thousand times and they still do not start. I am going to buy an electric one. Blow the ryobi.

Macsmum
February 2009
Check in tank fuel filter - clogged? Mine was.

barry
June 2008
difficult site to type into..add, if it has electronic ignition it also can break down in high voltage area. Tear down and clean is a start so long as you are clean, methodical and know what to look-for. Sorry about spelling previously but it got away as I was trying to fix it!!

Tony
January 2008
Don't do what was recommended on another woody site..use aerostart!!..airostart kills engines sooner or later...aslo kills nasty dogs...carry somealways!! Like the photocopier wouldn't you think a relaiable and forgivin 2 stroke could be made by now? Fuel is a common problem but ignition defects can also cause run-stop, eg moisture, wire/insulation breakdown, ..and most magnetos have a capacitor which can be crook. Cheers

Tony
January 2008
I bet that old fuel and gunk in the fuel has, over time, clogged up certain parts inside the carburettor. Actually, to fix the problem is not very difficult at all if you're familiar with taking apart the carby very carefully. Of course you'll first have to empty out the fuel container before you begin work. Then you may need to buy some spare plastic tubing for fuel lines, just in case you need it. And then you need properly sized screwdrivers to remove the carburettor (like undoing the plate for the choke lever etc.

Disconnecting the fuel lines from the carb will be necessary...by sliding the plastic tube lines off the metal tubes. And you have to remember which tube goes to which part....very important. You will also have to use a small screwdriver to disconnect the little wire for throttle/revs control.

Then you carefully open up the top and bottom lids of the carb. One side of the carb will have a removable diaphragm that you can remove.

Then, you need to use a carburettor pressurized cleaner spray (which sprays a clear solvent liquid) into the various tiny internal pipes and things inside the carburettor. It is a good idea to use the normal precautions when handling flammable substances. It is normally quite safe anyhow...just keep away from heat sources etc. After you have given the internals a really good spray, you can even use a screwdriver to carefully remove a mechanism that includes a lever, vertical pin, and a delicate little spring inside the carb. But you must remember how to put it back in later, in the reverse order.....it is not that difficult to do. You may have to fiddle to get it back in, but it's not that hard. Anyway, with the pin and everything pulled out, you can spray the carb cleaner into the holes. The effect of the carb cleaners is to dissolve any gunk and debris that clogs the tiny little passages where the fuel is meant to run through. Also, inside the carb will be a very fine circular mesh filter thing, and you might even see brown coloured gunk built up a little bit on that, you need to spray lots of carb cleaner on that in order to get rid of it. The carb cleaner should be able to flush the gunk out from the mesh. After you've given everything inside a very good clean with the carb cleaner, you just have to put everything back together again carefully, and firmly.....but of course, don't use massive force to tighten screws. Use a fair bit of force, but not massive amount, or else you could bust the screws or threads.

The only temporary setback that you might have with the above procedure is if the gaskets or diaphragm are very old and degraded, or worn out. This would not be unusual. In that case, you would only need to bring your parts manual to the local lawn-mower shop to buy or order in replacements for those parts. A good lawn mower shop will probably have them in stock anyway.

Anyway, once you put everything back together, I bet that your whipper snipper will probably work like new again. The problem you experience is expected, because gunk from fuel will eventually clog things up inside the carb. It is just a matter of time. And if you can service the carb yourself, which isn't all the hard, except you just have to get your hands dirty a little bit, it saves having to throw money away for somebody else to do such a simple servicing.

Kenny
July 2007
another problem could be is you have your fuel lines incorrectly connected

Rob
April 2006
Robby, it sounds like you need to pull the carb and clean it. Spray some carb cleaner into it and then blow it out with an air compressor. Fuel flow is resticted.

cholbach
March 2006

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