Access to rear light cluster (including reversing light) is via the boot. Pull back the liner/carpet and you'll see the rear of the lamp cluster. You just squeeze a spring tab to release the cluster. Don't hold the glass part of the bulb with your fingers - grease from your hands will reduce the bulb life.
Fuses are below and to the right of the steering column - just in front of the drivers right knee - small plastic panel to be removed with sticker on the back labelling the fuses.
JD
January 2009