For anyone else looking for problems with the Bahama switching itself off, I thought I would add my experience in the hope it can help someone. My boiler was remaining on for only short periods of time before switching itself off again in central heating mode and then refusing to restart until the mains was switched off for a few seconds. The vast majority of the time, the flame out light was not showing. This led to a lot of googling and experimentation to find out what the problem was. The problem turned out to be corrosion on the flow switch connector for the central heating which meant even though the flow switch was working, the resistance to the PCB wasn't changing! To check these switches out for yourself, get your manual and locate the switches (check both). Switch off the boiler at the mains and then disconnect the hot water flow switch connector. Put a multimeter into the switch side connector, set to measure resistance and then turn on hot tap. You might be able to hear a small click from the switch and the resistance should drop to zero. If it doesn't, replace this flow switch (you only need to turn off the mains water for this). Reconnect the wires on the first switch and then disconnect the connector on the central heating flow switch. With the multimeter plugged into the second switch, switch on the mains and start the central heating. Again, the resistance should drop to zero. The central heating will only fire for a short while like this because the PCB will not be detecting a flow. If the resistance stays at 1, then replace this flow switch (you will need to drain the boiler for this). If both switches are OK, then make sure that the pins in the connector blocks are not corroded - this was my problem and it took a while to figure it out. If this isn't your problem, after reconnecting everything, but while you still have the front of the boiler open, make sure that you can hear the divertor valve switching between hot water and central heating by having the boiler in central heating mode, resetting the mains power if needed to get it going and then switching on a hot water tap to make sure that it switches OK. You should be able to see the front of the divertor valve motor move slightly as it exerts force on the valve. If not and you get no hot water at all, then as Brian suggested, you can have this replaced. If the flame out light is going on regularly, you can try replacing the flame sensing electrode in the flame box, this part should be less than £10. If everything else checks out, you can try replacing the PCB located inside the drop down front panel. These are available for less than £40 on ebay and if it doesn't fix your problem, you can always sell it on! Finally, it does say on the boiler inside cover (on mine at least), that the boiler is very sensitive to air in the system, so it is worth making sure that it is completely bled of air. I am not entirely sure how to do this as it has an automatic air vent, so you may need to get a plumber to help. One other thing that could fail that I never even got round to locating is the thermistor which is the water temperature sensor.
Hope this helps someone!
Matt.
Matt
March 2010