how do i repair an idesit washing machine?

Assumption: It completes the fill and wash cycle OK, then won't go any further.
If the machine starts a fill and wash cycle, then the control module/Printed Circuit Board is probably OK.
If the machine fills with hot and cold water then the valves are working OK, and the mains relays on the control module are OK
If the drum rotates during the wash cycle, then the motor, belt, and associated relays on the control module are OK.

Possible/probable pump/filter assembly is clogged up either with coins, beer-can ring pulls, or a build up of fluff and general debris from clothes.
If you switch the machine to a 'DRAIN' or 'SPIN' cycle, can you hear the pump working/struggling/humming? If not, the pump might be faulty. This needs a qualified engineer to remove and test.
There is a pressure switch which senses the water level in the drum. If the water hasn't been pumped out, this pressure switch prevents the machine from trying to spin the drum while full of water.
If the pressure switch or the small pipe from the drum to this switch are faulty/clogged, then the machine fills and then overfills before even commencing a wash cycle. If this is NOT happening, it's likely the pressure switch and pipe are OK.
(If you've got the machine open AND UNPLUGGED!!! It's the work of just a few minutes to push a coat-hanger wire down the pipe to make sure it's not clogged with detergent-jelly. DON'T BREAK THE PLASTIC PIPE FITTINGS ON THE DRUM AND/OR PRESURE SWITCH!!)
Back to the pump/filter assembly!!!

There is an access plate at the bottom rear corner of the machine which opens to reveal the pump-filter.

DRAIN THE MACHINE BEFORE REMOVING THIS, BY LOWERING THE DRAIN PIPE INTO A BOWL. IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO JACK THE MACHINE UP ON BRICKS OR BOOKS TO GET THE NECESSARY HEIGHT. IT WILL PROBABLY TAKE THREE OR FOUR BOWLFULS TO DRAIN THE TUB TO AN ACCEPTABLE EXTENT. CONTROL THE FLOW BY RAISING AND LOWERING THE PIPE. Even so, you will still probably get some residual water on the floor when UNSCREWING the pump filter cap. Have a towel or old rags handy to mop up!!!
Remove the pump/filter cap, and shine a torch (flashlight!!) into the hole. You should be able to see the impeller. Poke a long finger in, to see if you can rotate the impeller. BEWARE!! - RING PULLS ARE SHARP!! Fish out any debris in this area, and ensure that when all the muck and rubbish has been shovelled out, the impeller rotates reasonably freely by hand. (You might feel a cyclic 'lumpiness' in the rotation. This is due to the magnetic nature of the pump motor, and is normal.)
Restore the filter cap, screwing down firmly, but not too hard.
PUT THE DRAIN PIPE BACK IN THE SINK OR DRAIN STANDPIPE!!!
DO NOT MISS THIS STEP OUT!!!
Restore power, and start a wash cycle.
With a reasonable amount of water in the drum (about one inch up the glass) move the machine on to a spin or drain cycle. If you've removed anything substantial from the pump, this was the probable cause of the fault, and the machine should now function OK.

David Clark
February 2006

have you checked if its emptying? if not i would try the pump.

andy
January 2006

check the door latch / out of balance microswitch located under the control unit. this switch when test with a multimeter on ohms setting x1 should give a full deflective reading (NC) normally closed , when the switch is pressed in the meter will not deflect with no reading or (NO) normally open circuit

other than that you may have a faulty timer if the switch tests ok

brad (australia)
May 2005