Schematic diagram Kitchenaid K5SS speed control board?

my phase control board has 2 film capacitors: 0.1 uF and 0.022uF

when i pulled the triac out, the caps came with it (they were glued together)

i got replacement caps, but i am not sure which is which (i.e. which value would be closer to the triac). kitchenaid schematic labels C1 as connected across blue and black wires and C2 connected to R4 and Diac

i have the schematic but am not sure how to post it but you can find the whole service manual by google images

i know there are different versions of the board, but in mine the caps were rectangular and parallel to the triac face (and all 3 glued together). if anyone has the board with numbers on the caps or can tell me just based on circuit principles which is which, i would appreciate it

bouldergla
April 2012

I just wanted to thank fredharvey and others for their posts. I bought an NTE 5638, replaced the old one, and my mixer now works at all speeds. Before the replacement, it would spin fast at all settings.

Karniferus
March 2011

Here's a diac that works just fine. This company will ship small quantities eg. 1 piece.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=497-3134-1-ND

They also have the triac but in our case it was the diac that failed.

AlanR
February 2011

The triac is marked BTA06 600SW

Here's a data sheet.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/2936.pdf

AlanR
January 2011

David,

When my board was bad all I got was one speed (very fast), but no clunking or grinding sound. The speed control board doesn't have moving parts so I'm guessing your board isn't bad if you get low to high speeds using the external mixer speed control. Sounds to me like you have a bad motor bearing. Another possibility is bad motor brushes - if so that's an easy fix. There is also a gear box that turns the beater. Any of those three possibilities could cause a grinding/clunking sound.

Bob P
April 2010

I suspect the speed control phase board is bad on my Kitchenaid KSM5 mixer. It seems to be switching the motor on and off hard (causing a sort of rattling sound) when it controls at the lower speeds. I'm able to calibrate the speeds fine, but it's a little noisy and clunky sounding from the rear.

Could that be the speed control board failure?

David S
February 2010

Hey guys,

My eagle eyes made out BTA06 and after a quick search, I found out the component was a 6A TRIAC similar to this one:

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/stmicroelectronics/2936.pdf

Konesky
December 2009

Thanks Fred. I will try the same thing you did.

Bob P
August 2009

I don't know what the original components were since markings were painted over or rubbed off during manufacturing, but I drew out the schematic, went to engineering sites, found a very similar speed control and used the components from it, and it seems to work very well. While the board is a circuit board, treat it more like pegboard with solder bridges, use a sucker and wick to remove the devices, and a little wire to put them back.
Also check the wires from the board to the plate, they are soldered into rivets, then riveted to the board,

for the 3 legged device TRIAC (it was shorted) I used an NTE 5638, about 2 bucks at Frys or local electronics hobby shop. Just about any TRIAC would work as long as it is a few amps and over 200 volts. The diode looking thing is a DIAC, used to limit voltage to the triac. It will test open if good, shorted if bad, mine was open, but still bad. They are a pain to test without destroying them, and only cost a buck or two. The one I used is an NTE 6408 32 volt 2 amp.

I cleaned points while in there, and is running great for less than $5 and 20 minutes after I figured out what the parts were. Again these may not be the correct components, but they seem to work well.

fredharvey
August 2009

I could get an SCR and solder it onto the board. Unfortunately, I don't know the pinout arrangement on the SCR which is on the board now. All SCR's do not have the same pinouts. I may get lucky, but with three pins I think that means I'd only have a one in six chance of getting it right. If I get it wrong, I'm concerned I'd not only burn up the faulty circuit board, but my wife's mixer as well.

Bob P
August 2009

The diode should be easy to determine if its functional. If it needs replacing simply choose a diode capable of handling 120v. I am not sure without taking a close look at the part and removing the heat sink however the SCR is most likely overheated. I have seen them break down often when used to control voltage. Again they should be able to handle the 120v load but with a schematic it is hard to rebuild. Then again, its already broken so fix it and see if it work, whats is gonna do? break. good luck

techtalkabc
August 2009

No, I haven't. Kitchenaid does not share a schematic. They said it is proprietary.

Bob P
April 2009

hi!
I have exactly the same problem... I wanna repair my kitchenaid but I cannot find out what diode I have to get...
cold you find it out in the meantime?

eddie
February 2009