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Miele WT2670 inlet fault on drying cycle?

I get the message "inlet fault" after about 3 minutes into the machine's drying cycle. The wash cycle works O.K. as does "rinse out fluff." The stopcock is fully on and the hose is not kinked. I've cleaned the drain filter and the soap tray but there are no filters in the inlet pipe because the supplied Miele pipe wouldn't fit because the stop cock is too close to the wall to turn the nut. Does anyone have any idea if there's another inlet filter that can get blocked and how to get at it?

Roger
November 2011
Same here, voltage comes for 3 seconds and then disappears

Max
April 2021
I did the same as Dave N and found a small plastic (toy) ball blocking the outlet. Removed and now working fine!

JaGardiner23
August 2016
How to remove top cover, undid 2 x back screws and 2 x side screws, still seems stuck.

Tg
September 2014
I had the same inlet error, the solenoid coils metered out ok. I tried blowing into the disconnected drier pipe, it felt blocked, so I disconnected the othef end which was at the top connected to a manifold behind the detergent drawer, I found a small hole at that end blocked, so I poked it out with a small piece of wire. It works fine now.

Dave N
July 2013
This washer dryer has a dual water inlet valve, one feeding the washing machine, the other the tumble dryer. If your machine is washing normally - including rinse out fluff and warm air drying - it's likely the solenoid operating the second valve has failed - specifically gone open circuit.

First, disconnect the power. You can access the valve from the back at the bottom; undo the hose connection (turn the water off!), remove two torx screws, pull the latch at the centre top forwards slightly, lift the plastic panel up slightly and then wriggle it free. There are two hose connections and two electrical connections. Mark one pair with tape to prevent them getting mixed up.

If you have an ohm-meter, disconnect the electrical connectors and check the resistance of each solenoid. Mine was about 3.6k Ohms with the faulty one open circuit.

The replacement valve costs about ÂŁ60; disconnect the wires and hoses, and replace with the new valve.

If you want to run an extra test to be certain the valve is the problem, run with both water and the two connections disconnected. Be careful, the solenoids run at 240v so ONLY do this if you are CERTAIN what you are doing. Disconnect the power and connect an AC voltmeter to the connector - if you have one with standard prods, they can be pressed in to the connector sideways. Reconnect the power and run a drying cycle and you should see 240v at the connector during the first few minutes before the error alarm. If you don't see this, there problem may lie elsewhere.

Mark Norton
May 2013
Hi, I have the same fault. Did you resolve

Nigel
May 2012
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