I'm re-posting the solution I implemented months ago. It's cheap, easy to do, and has stood the test of time (almost a year now). I, too, tried other glue-based repairs, but they were only temporarily effective. This one works.
"What follows hasn't yet stood the full test of time (it's been only two weeks), but it will. I used this method to repair mine after my first glue job failed after a couple of weeks. This one won't.
Cost of materials is less than $10.00, and there's no need to remove anything but the handle via the screw at its top.
Materials needed are a small amount of masking or electrical tape, a reasonably thick rubber band that will fit around the door and the handle, a couple of 1/2" long pan head sheet metal screws, and a tube of one of the J B Weld ribbon-like epoxies that come with one of the two materials wrapped around the other. Home Depot carries about four or five different types. Their Plastic Weld should work fine, but I chose Water Weld, because it's shown to bond both plastic and metal.
Tools needed are a drill with a very small bit (to start the holes for the screws), the screwdriver you're going to use to remove and reattach the handle and to run the screws in, a razor blade scraper and a box cutter (both are recommended), and whatever else you might want to use to roughen and/or score plastic.
Loosen the handle and swing its bottom to the side. If there's not a reasonably clear outline on the door showing the position of the lower portion of the handle against the door when the handle's in position, make a rough one with tape.
Remove the handle. Thoroughly score and roughed everything you can see in and around the bottom cavity, then do the same thing to the flat plastic surface of the door inside the outline discussed above.
Drill two small holes in the door about one and one-sixteenth of an inch below the top of the outline, reasonably far away from the outsides of the outline, and far enough apart to accommodate the heads of the pan head screws.
Screw in the pan head screws almost, but not quite, all the way. Reinstall the handle to make sure that its sides clear the screw heads so that the bottom of the handle will flush-up against the door. If it doesn't and won't without there being no gap between the screw's heads and the door surface, you might need to take out one or both of the screws and reposition it/them (don't worry: astronaut's lives won't be affected). After you get a "good fit" on the handle and the screws, remove the handle, again.
Now, cut off significantly more of the epoxy stick than you're going to need to fill the cavity at the handle's bottom, follow the directions on kneading it to a uniform color, then apply a generous portion of it to the area around and under the screw heads. If you're lucky, there will still be a "stalk" from the old handle-to-door connection sticking out of the door. If there is, smear the epoxy all over that booger, too, and if there's not, sort of create a "plug" with the epoxy and put it in the hole that's there.
Now, slightly over-fill with the epoxy every cavity you can see in the bottom of the handle, then reattach the handle and push its bottom flush against the door, which should make epoxy ooze out everywhere around the handle's bottom. Remove the worst of the "ooze" with the blades of the razor blade scraper and the box cutter.
Next, put the rubber band around the door and the handle and tension it to help hold the bottom of the handle against the door, then remove the balance of the excess "ooze."
If there are small gaps between the bottom portion of the handle and the door (and, like me, you happen to suffer from OCD), you can use small pieces of the excess epoxy and your saliva-moistened finger to fill them in, the remove the excess again.
Do your final clean-up with a little moisture and a paper towel or rags.
The epoxy's very easy to work with. The one I chose sets in 15 to 25 minutes, which gives plenty of working time, "dries" white, and cures in 60 minutes.
If my repair fails, I'll re-post, but I suspect that it would require a hammer and a chisel (okay, maybe only a hacksaw and/or a Dremel tool) to detach the bottom of the handle from the door...though your mileage may vary.
Dan
Dan L
August 2010"
Dan L
July 2011