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dryer broken on lavamat turbo 16830?

Hi, my AEG Lavamat Turbo 16830 and the dryer function is not working properly. It starts but counts down thnrough the minutes too quickly (between 15-20 seconds per minute counted down) and stops part way through before reaching the end, usually after about 5 minutes running time only. It also doesn't seem to be heating up to dry at all. The washer function seems to be working fine.
I have a toddler who has on more than one occasion turned the dial during a washing cycle - could this have messed up the electrics?

rhiannydd jones
June 2010
The problem will be the sensor that is in the bottom hose of the condensor, you have to take the back off the machine to see it, usually its a wire off

Engineer350
January 2013
how to remove stuck washing/items from back/side of drum. not in impella checked that. very noisy when spinning, sounds like someone using electric sander when on 1600 spin

len
November 2012
I have a AEG lavamat Turbo 16830 which washes & spins fine. The drier cycle had degraded & did not work. It counted down the 125mins in less than 10mins & the clothes remained wet & cold. After running I emptied the water using the drain pump hose & confirmed the impeller was free to move. I tried the drying cycle again & the same problem was still present. Re-opening the drain pump emergency emptying hose there is >1litre water which suggests water was being fed ok for the condenser to work.

A quick websearch suggested the likely problem was a blocked condenser preventing airflow. This WAS the case (tissue paper-grr). I removed & cleaned the condenser, reassembled it & the machine works properly again. Thankyou everybody :D
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Method (drawn from many web authors)
Only do this if you are competent working on an appliance with it disconnected from the mains (elec & water)!
The lid and the rear half of the cabinet has to be removed, you will see a clear plastic chamber running down the side of the machine from the fan motor downwards. Remove the hose clip at the bottom of the chamber then lower the chamber away from the fan, clean it out by flushing and using a coat hanger wire to clear majority of bits. If the syphon tube to the rear side is blocked it can be cleared with cold water via a 6mm rubber irrigation hose ( use hot water to soften the pipe so you can put a 90degree bend in it & then set it with coldwater ).
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Getting the panels off; At the top back corners, remove bolts holding top and remove the top.
Looking down from the back, on each side, four cadmium plated bolts with lock washers secure the sides to the inner chassis. Remove the two nearest the back on both sides.
Looking down, in the back left hand corner is the fan; a single bolt secures the back panel to it. Remove it and note that it is not the same as the bolts so far removed.
At the bottom on the back, three bolts secure the back to the chassis. Remove and note that, again they are different from all others so far.
On each side , where the rear panel meets the front panel, at the bottom, find a plastic blanking plug. Remove it, and undo the bolt it hides. (When you reassemble it's very easy to "lose" this bolt inside. Magnetic socket or chewing gum to hold it in your socket spanner will make life much easier).
All that is now holding the panel is the while plastic moulding which holds the cold water inlet - you have turned the water off and disconnected the pipe from the back haven't you? A little plastic catch on each side holds this moulding, and once removed the back is free to slide off the plastic rails of the machine base...
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Removing the condenser; As suggested by others, it is easier to pull upwards on the fan assembly at the top of the machine. The assembly has just enough "give" to enable you to pop the top of the condenser out from where it mates up with the fan assembly. It's then simple to unclip it at the bottom using a screwdriver.

MrT
August 2012
Have the same problem can somone help?
lavamat turbo 16820

Chan
August 2010
I have this machine and its terrible! I had the same problem, it was caused by the manufacturers making the wires too short in the machine and when it was spinning it severed the wires to the tumble dryer sensor. Pathetic eh! :(
I had the previous version of the machine & it was fine but this one is just the pits, I would never buy another AEG as when Serviceforce came for the 3rd time they admitted that AEG branded products are a mish mash of cheaper brand components underneath. A bit like thinking youre buying an Audi then when you lift the bonnet all the parts are Suzuki (fine if you buy Suzuki but not at Audi prices lol).
You shouldnt have to pay for the repair if its a design fault, I had a bit of a hoohaa getting Service Force Centre to agree to it though so good luck. I have yet more probs with mine today & its just out of its warranty period so I have more hoohaa's ahead of me to get it sorted. Hope this helps & sorry its longwinded lol

Suz
June 2010
turning the dials shouldn't effect it.there are 2 sensors on the dryer and if they are faulty or the wiring has broken then the machine counts down the timer quickly.the favourite is the sensor on the bottom tub hose which goes to the condensor tank.the wiring has a habit of breaking off

ck
June 2010

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