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How can I get access to braun multipractic (4262) switch?

Hi,
I have an intermittant problem with my elderley braun multipractic 4262 as it does not always switch on - however a bit of light tapping on the casing near the switch quite often gets it going. I think it is probably a lose wire in that area. Problem is I can't get access to it to have a look - I've got the bottom off but not sure how to proceed without breaking it - any help or advice greatly received ???

Anne-Marie in Derby
November 2009
Had the same problem of an intermittent switch on a very old 4262. Followed the process here and found it was a blackened and eroded contact wire. I took photos as I went to remind me of the assembly. Cleaned and bent it to get a better contact. Reassembled and all works again!

Splonder
October 2022
These switches do fail after a long time of use.
Pry off the big power knob with two blunt knives inserted between the power knob and the speed ring. It is just pushed on firmly.
Turn the speed ring to minimum and note the markings on the little nylon gear inside and the pointer of the speed ring.
Remove the speed ring and the little gear inside.
Two philips screws have to be removed here.
And a third one that is hidden under a small lid on one of the corners near the maximum speed number.
You might have to use a craft knife to remove this lid.
Now you can wriggle off the whole top.
After you have studied where the end of the spring goes, you can remove the metal safety lever.
Mark the top/bottom half of the switch before opening. It fits on two ways. Wrong, and you could have trouble with the safety lever.
The switch has to be opened carefully (I desolder/remove them).
One of the silver contact wires has burned in and is now too short to contact properly.
First swap the stationary contact with a good one from the opposite side.
Then bend the loop a bit smaller so it can reach the contact again.
Take care to not deform the loop where a second contact is.
Put everything back in reverse order. Check if the speed ring reaches max and min position.
10 years more life :)

Leo
December 2012
In case anyone here can't fix their 4262, I have a 4262 which I need the bowl and lid for.
I would gladly pay a reasonable price for them.

Please Email me at newal at smartscorp dot com

Alen Kalati
March 2010
It could also be the main switch contacts which are the problem. Mine had nearly melted away from 22 years of use and electric erosion. Braun no longer keeps spares for this machine, so the only (very temporary) fix is to rebuild the contact wire with some solder and 1.5 sq mm copper wire. Unfortunately, it will erode quickly.

No special tools are needed, but it is fiddly. Removing the main switch cover requires quite a lot of strength and it's easy to break the plastic. Lever it away from underneath using a medium-sized flat blade screwdriver (there's a small notch in the switch cover to facilitate insertion), then remove the two phillips screws. On my model there is a small plastic cover in the corner, flush with the top, hiding a third screw, which also needs to come off.

Once the three screws have been removed, it is possible to lift the plastic cover - it's a tight fit. Note carefully how the safety interlock and spring are positioned.

Once you get at this point, if the culprit is the variable resistor, you'll see that it is quite evidently burned out. If the VR is still white and with no obvious signs of overheating, then look at the switch.

Open the main switch casing by using a small screwdriver and levering off the sides; if the inside of the casing is blackened out, it's the contacts that have been sparking too much.

If this is clean, check the other components and the underside of the PCB for signs of heating or cracking/peeling away.

Repair/replace and refit everything.

It's unlikely to be any of the wiring in the motor case - there is nothing mechanical/subject to wear except the motor itself (but that seems to work, from what you say).

Coyote
December 2009
HI ,
I have the same problem with mine, we went to open the machine and found we have to have a special braun tool to do it. What did you use to get at the motor?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Darlene

Darlene
December 2009
Hi Anne-Marie. I too have the same problem as you. I took the appliance apart this afternoon and it's quite fiddly to do. There are two pcb mounted wiring connectors near the switch, but I think you'll find the problem is a burnt out variable resistor (R17) on this board. You need to remove the white on/off knob and the green speed selector ring by inserting a small screw driver into the tiny slot between these two controls and prise off. This will reveal two tiny phillips screws, undo these, then prise off the lid. Watch out for a spring!! All will be revealed. Good luck.

Deryck
December 2009

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