Carpentry chisel sharpening?

Chisel sharpening used to be a really slow mundane task until I bought a trend chisel sharpener. You don't need anything else apart from water, they are razor sharp in double quick time and the more often you use it the easier it becomes each time. Click here for full instructions.

Gary
December 2010

I USE WET&DRY PAPER ON A SHEET OF FAIRLY THICK GLASS. START WITH COARSE GRADE &WORK DOWN TO FINE. USE DRY WITH HONING GUIDE, EXELLENT RESULTS.

WOODY
March 2009

Hi
Keep contact both forward and back stroke. Alternatively you could sharpen them on a belt sander. Turn sander upside down and turning towards you and sharpen away. Have a glass of water to periodically douse the chisel. Razor sharp without the laborious work.
Ps. The finer the grit the sharper the edge

Vince
November 2008

First grind squate tip when viewed from above.
Next grind slope of 25 deg
Sharpen on oil stone back and forth to make it flat
Now change angle to 30 deg and put on an edge about 2mm wide.
Change over to fine stone and continue 30 deg sharpening

At end you will feel a burr on the underside - where the thin metal has folded back on itself. Place blade flat on stone and move sideways a few times to remove burr.

Check out Trend's FASTTRACK sharpening jig. The chisel remains stationary and flat as you slide the sharpening stone back and forth across the face of the chisel. It has two specific grinding angles - 25 to start and 30 to finish and there are at least three sharpening stones available - coarse - fine & very fine. About £45 with two stones.

If £45 is too much at least invest in a wheeled sharpening jig to hold the chisel at a constant angle and try not to plough a furrow in the oil stone by following the same line all the time. Most of the "work" will be done on the push stroke but it matters not if you apply pressure on the return other than the oil stone will move towards you!

A lot of confusion exists about grinding angles - as far as I can make out 15 degrees is excellent but the edge has no strength - Craftsmen go for 25 deg but when it needs re-sharpening the whole face needs to be ground away - the easier solution is to grind first at 25 deg and finish with a thin strip of 30 deg. This way, when it's time to re-sharpen, you only have to grind off a small amount of metal to restore the sharp edge.

Richard Buxton
September 2008

It does not matter.This is the most emotive subject for wood butcher's.What you'r trying to create is in effect an edge that is one molecule thick,practically impossible .whatever you'r technique if it results in sharp,then it's right.pureist's be dammed.Some tips,the most important area is the back,it must!be flat.and idealy so smooth and shinny that u can use it as a mirror.this is a major advantage for the edge.diamond's are good esp for flattening oil stone's,at least as much time spent flattening stones as spent sharpening.waterstones are jawdropping in there cutting ability,and flatten a treat,I have one at 40#grit,great for taking out nick's and flattening stone's.waterstone's also for final honeing,i use a combination one with a final grit of4000#.the ease of use and simple cleanup makes them unbeatable.See "axminster machine tool's" for supply .on web.speaking as a total tool pervert,I've spent many a happy hour sitting at home bringing chisel's back to life using waterstone's.bliss.downside is now u have to be very carefull in my knife drawer.

caine
July 2008

Cut and paste this URL address into internet explorer and NORTON abrasives tell you everything you need to know even oil stones or diamond.
I know its a long web address but hey its worth the hassle.

http://www.nortonconsumer.com/Data/Element/Node/Application/Application_edit.asp?ele_ch_id=A0000000000000001563

Marples
July 2008