Leisure Rangemaster 110 Clock?

Used the technique of putting the grill on for a couple of minutes or so and the clock can be re set and all back to normal x so relieved as cooker is truly stuck where it has been placed thanks so much for the life saving tip x

Frankie
November 2020

Used the technique of putting the grill on for a couple of minutes or so and the clock can be re set and all back to normal x so relieved as cooker is truly stuck where it has been placed thanks so much for the life saving tip x

Frankie
October 2020

I have a variation on the problem in that the 1st digit on the clock tends not to display.

Anyone else had this issue?

killjoy
June 2020

See Khirstie Mar 2014 below re heating up the clock if your cooker gets cold - a 2 minute blast with a hairdryer on the clock works well. Temporary fix only though!

Maz
January 2019

Perfect, thanks Bill. I have the electric Rangemaster 110 and had the same clock problem. Like you I removed the knobs, undid all the screws underneath the panel and wedged it open enough to first remove the bottom brown wire to get to the blue one above. Then reconnected the brown wire and insulated the blue. All working fine now, except the clock of course!

Stuart
November 2017

Thank you all so much. I just disconnected my timer on 16 ? Year old Rangemaster 110. Thank you !

Eighties
April 2017

Thank you ever so much, Bill of March 2016. Same clock problem - no need of oven timer - only purpose it served was the countdown timer with a bleep at the end. Some of the methods described earlier seemed a bit daunting but having seen your solution, I decided to give it a go. There were only 4 screws holding the front control panel on mine. All came out easily. It did require a fair bit of force to pull the panel away sufficiently to reveal the wires. On mine there was just one blue one which I pulled out and looped over the brown one to keep the connector away from the oven top. Upon reassembling, only 3 of the screws would go back in - the one (different to the other three) below the clock just would not locate. Who cares - I left it out! Both ovens are now working fine. Total time taken - 9 minutes and that includes finding a screw driver and long nosed pliers. Brilliant!

George.
July 2016

Thank you all so much for your advice and instructions. I have had the most awful time with my leisuremaster 110 - could not get oven on because of clock. Just 10 minutes with handy men and now ovens working again. Can't thank you all enough.

Jojo
July 2016

Many thanks to all who have posted solutions here. We bought an old second hand rangemaster 110 and the clock has just given out, ( Good Friday, family arriving tomorrow!) Flashing continously, loud ticking sound when tryng the usual restting after power failure.. Could get it to go for mintes but never long enough to cook anything!.
We live in France so repair engineers are rarer than rocking horse droppings!.
However ovens now work although clock is no longer working ( shame I hear you cry!). Solution was a per below to remove two blue wires from the clock block and reconnect the together. Insulate and pop back under control panel. Getting to the clock was the trickiests. I tried via hob removal but the right hand panel ( griddle and electric plate) would not budge so could not get to clock. Undid the 5 screws under the control knob panel. Removed all control knobs ( simply pull off) and then levered whole panel gently ( but firmly!) unit the wires into the clock were visible. Wedged it with two screwdrivers while I works on it.Long nosed pliers easily removed the wires from the connector block. Pushed the tag of one into the socket of the other. Wrapped securely in inlsulating tape and push back under.

All works now ( and 45 minutes of gruntinga nd complaining saved £2000 ( for the time being).... Easter roast here we come!

Bill
March 2016

Should of said, disconnect the blue wire going to the digital clock.

John Cowley
February 2016

My oven was a Rangemaster 60S. Had the same prob!em, flashing clock, then eventually the clock and oven stopped working. After turning oven off at main unit. Pulled oven out after removing the four retaining screw holding the oven to the oven unit. With oven out and on floor removed the six screws holding the top cover of the oven off. Disconnected the single blue wire and attacked it away, so it did not touch the top of the oven. Replaced in reverse order. Oven now works fine, have never used auto timer anyway. Thank you so much for your posts

John M Cowley
February 2016

Thank you,Thank you for the clear instructions of curing the flashing clock . Mike you are brilliant .

Bobl
October 2015

I followed the instructions re disconnecting the blue wire on the clock and that took no time at all and was successful. I'd like to take the next step and attempt to fix the clock by replacing the capacitor. Can anyone help me identify which part it is and how I describe it to an electrical shop. I've narrowed it down to an oblong shaped thing attached direct to the board an oblong item horizontal which has a wire at either end coming down to the board which is soldered on. Is it the latter?

John
July 2015

I paid a mender of kitchen appliances to come in to do the job and showed him Graham's instructions. They worked perfectly. He was surprised, I was overjoyed and the back of the cooker got a clean.
It cost £40, which was a lot less than the £169 I had been quoted by the manufacturers to replace the ( unused) clock.

Lilly4paws
June 2015

Followed Graham's answer - saved us a packet - thanks :)

Cheryl
February 2015

Just followed these instructions and popped the blue wire out and good as new!
Like has been said previously,I just removed the 4 screws from the hob and the 2 from the griddle and then re-read a reply which said to slide the right hand side out to the right.
Job done in 5 minutes! Just looking for a digital magnetic timer to go on my cooker good now as that's the only part of the clock I used.

Debbie
February 2015

Also had flashing clock. (You can 'bypass' the clock switch as per Graham) Followed Mike's instructions (March 2011), replaced capacitor, costing less than a pound, now works perfectly. Many thanks Mike & others on this thread.

Stephen
December 2014

Followed Graham's instruction to a T and Ovens are back up and working. Just in time for the turkey. A big thank you for the help.

Declan
December 2014

Thanks Graham info to get to the back of the clock was good too. Your fix for me was ideal we never used the clock anyway

John D
December 2014

I've just taken my Rangemaster 110 apart using the steps provided here.
0) Turn power off
1) Remove the 4 screws from the left hand side burners.
2) Remove the 2 screws from the griddle
Now here is where mine was different, the right hand side wouldn't budge at all (even with a 4lb lump hammer).
3) I found there were 4 screws at the back if the cooker. So I had to get someone to tilt the cooker forward so I could remove them. There were 2 screws at the back of the 4 burners (one in the edge and the other at the middle of the cooker). There was also another 2 screws holding the griddle and hot plate in (one near the middle of the cooker and tge other on the edge - irritatingly near the mechanism for the lid).
4) This released the right hand side and then I removed the metal plate protecting the clock.
5) Then I just pulled out the blue wire (both blue wires were connected together in a plastic connector.
6) Turned the power back on and tested it.
Thankfully all was good.
7) Taped up the blue plastic connector
8) Replaced the clock metal cover.
9) Put the screws back in for the 4 burners and the griddle.
I didn't see the point in putting the screws in at the back of the cooker.
10) Power on and test then do a victory dance!
:)

Graham
November 2014

hi my clock on my range master 110 is stuck with the auto sign up. The 'hand' or in fact any of the other buttons fail to do anything... Still stuck on auto with no working oven! -any ideas anyone?

geoff
November 2014

Hi everyone,
Try "espares.co.uk" its the place for parts for all manner of household items. I priced up a new clock for my Rangemaster 110 its £39.99 (w/o pp). Have bought items from them before to fix washing machine door and tumble dryer belt, their great and they do "downloadable manuals" as well.

Btw can anyone describe what the capacitor looks like on the PCB and where is that sited?

Angie
October 2014

Excellent information. Thanks Mike.

Got a 15 year old Leisure 55E that started with the flashing clock, dropping into cook program mode so had to 'reset' to use oven. Unable to set time, minute timer etc..

Bought some 220UF 25V capacitors off ebay. Cheaper to buy 10 delivered at £2 than waste petrol driving to Maplins ;)

Replaced in under 15 mins and now clocks and timer etc.. is running as good as new.

(4 screws oven top, 4 screws facia, 2 screws clock)

Was fearing having to pay £59+ for a replacement clock unit.

Darren
October 2014

I need to at least disconnect the clock to get the oven working. I've read on here that the hob can be lifted without moving the cooker, is this correct as I cannot get the right side to lift up and really want to avoid having to pull the oven out.

Trazza
September 2014

Hoping this helps anyone wanting to replace their digi clock/timer on an electric 110 (Ours is c.1998 model). Having spoken with the Rangemaster technical department they gave me the original clock/timer part number (A094706) but alas this is now an obsolete part and after ringing around is no longer available, however this has now been superseded by part number: P035624-02 which is readily available. I managed to source from Qualtex UK (Manufacturers & Distributors of appliances and replacement parts) Tel: 01795 596750 at a cost of £49.01 with free next day delivery via courier. The revised design clock does have two additional connectors on the rear ST7 & ST8, both these can be ignored when re-fitting the clock. Hope that helps

Robbie
August 2014

This isn't an answer but a question. We have taken the blue wires out of the clock on our 15 year old Leisure Rangemaster 110, isolated the wires (not connected them together) and the gas still doesn't come on in the ovens. Hobs, grill, griddle and warmer work fine still. Any idea's. RHS oven sparks, but not the LHS. Any ideas?

Ebee
August 2014

Thanks Mike. Rangemaster 110 - replaced the capacitor and clock is working fine again. 54p from Maplin. 30 minutes for the actual repair. 3 hours cleaning the damn thing whilst it was stripped down!

Rich
August 2014

Rangemaster 110 DF with a glass lid
New timer no longer available
Read all the postings here, and thought I would give the repair a try.
Maplin only had a 50V capacitor at 44p. Temp rating is only 105 deg C, whereas the one on the board was rated 125 deg - so maybe a problem stored up for later.
Nothing really to add to the words of Mike and others - except to suggest that you do not need to remove, as I did, the trim at the side of the hotplate bed (except to clean it).
Both I and the better half are well pleased with the result

Greg
April 2014

Warm up the grill or hob first! This has worked for me for last 9 months on my old cooker.sounds mad but works! Although my house is warm the cooker is in a cold spot by a cat flap.when the weather is cold it starts flashing & oven won't light by trial & error & desperation I discovered that lighting the front hobs or grill for a few minutes to warm the whole unit up,then when I pressed reset the oven lights fine every time.i leave it on high for a few minutes to get warm & can then turn the grill or hob off & the oven down & it stays on!sometimes it doesn't happen for weeks or could be every day depending on the weather.i can only summise that the cold is affecting the old electrics in the display settings.anyhow it works every time.if you don't give it enuf time to get warm via the grill or hob the oven wil turn off after a min & start flashing again.give it a go :)

Khirstie
March 2014

I had the same problem. All electric 15 years old. Turned off the electric. Took out the 2 screws on the righthand side top and one at the back partly hinden under the grill thing, its at the left of the righthand panel. Then slide the panel to the right a bit and lift up. Now 2 more screws on the timer cover, pull out the BLUE wire and insulate it. Reverse the procedure and the job is done. I do not use the timer anyway.

John
February 2014

Thank you the 44p capacitor from Maplins and the advice from this board saved me over £100.

Thank you Mike great advice.

Yours

Christian
January 2014

A simple exercise worked for me. Take out all the buttons that operate timer/clock and give them a good clean to remove grease etc. When I put them back in, I was able to reset the clock no problem and it has stopped flashing. More importantly the ovens work again as soon as you switch them on. I am thrilled to have it back in working order again.

Bernie Holohan
December 2013

Brilliant information! Rangemaster 110 timer clock flashing all the time and no ovens! Read this thread and hey presto repaired and ovens working, thank you so much.

alan
October 2013

Hello everyone - I found this thread after what appears to be a terminal fault with my Rangemaster Leisure 110 bought around 16 years ago; this thread may not be the exact one for the fault, but there’s so much real knowledge on here about the cooker that I thought I’d just ask to see if anyone can help. Cutting it short, RCB on the consumer board kept tripping, stating back on for nearly an hour until after isolating each ring and testing finally showed the kitchen ring at fault. Unfortunately, I’ve recently sustained a serious injury and am a bit disabled now, so I asked a friend in the village if he could help me out. Stout fellow brought a friend of his who is a sparks! Finally traced it to the cooker, tok the plug out and tested the socket which was ok. He tested the plug on his little box thing and said it all looked ok. So he plugged it back in and set the time. Almost as soon as the time was set there was an almighty bang, a flash from somewhere at the back of the cooker and a puff of smoke! Obviously we didn’t try again. All the hobs work - in that gas is delivered to them, but no ignitor and no gas to the ovens. So… my question is: has anyone got any idea what might have gone flash bang at the back? We checked the wiring up to the point of entry and all is fine, so I guess it’s something inside and close to the wire outlet. The sparks friend said call Rangemaster or Google it! So here I am. Any help greatly appreciated; it’s been a great cooker and has worked really hard since I bought it and currently I’m not in a position where I can replace it. Ta.

Jon B (Sussex)
June 2013

I have an electric rangemaster about 15 years old. I had the same problem so I disconnected the only blue wire from the clock and the ovens now work fine. Phew, but I do want to get a replacement clock. The code number on the clock is D-78559 and there are six connections. Other clocks I've looked at on the net do not look the same with only four connections. Suppliers want the serial number but I cannot find it anywhere ( not in the drawer etc). Any ideas?

Simon
May 2013

Having followed this thread, I bought a replacement capacitor and removed the circuit board. I then discovered that there was nothing wrong with the capacitor, but the standard of soldering on the entire board leaves something to be desired. All that had happened was that the capacitor had 'dry jointed' and application of a soldering iron and a little extra solder cured the problem.
I did the same to the buzzer contacts and cured another problem that my cooker had!

Steve
March 2013

Mike

I've just fixed my oven by replacing the capacitor on the board :)

I owe you a beer :)

Nice one


.. my model is a 55pro auto, disconecting the one blue wire also worked as a temp fix :)

Jim
February 2013

sorry revising an answer, after switching off electrics obviously switch back on, plus its fourth button from left not right, sorry.

paul spar
December 2012

the way i got round this is, i switched oven electrics of and waited 10 mins then i let it flash. press the hand (forth button from the right) and it should stop flashing for 30 seconds in that time switch oven on it should ignite and stay on till you get it repaired, worked for me

paul spar
December 2012

Thanks to all on here for their impeccable advice. Came back from holiday to find the fault and would not have had a clue what to do apart from to stump up £150 and get someone out to look at it. As with many people we have never used the clock and are now happily cooking again without it - very much appreciated

Dave
October 2012

Thanks everyone - especially Frank & Mike. We now have ovens again, tanks to a 39p Maplin capacitor. But I think I'll try to get some of the 125 degree tolerant RS ones from Bill, if he still has them, just to be on the safe side.

The only difficulty I had was persuading the rh side (i.e. the bit with the warming plate on it) to slide to the right, and slightly bent the locating lugs trying to heave it off. Only later did I discover there's a hidden screw right at the rear lh side (when looking from the back) which, once released, makes it all easy. Or would have done, if I'd found it before I bent the lugs. Bit of judicious tapping with small hammer re-flattened lug locator, and all now working. Brilliant idea to take pics.

Thanks again - really useful advice on this page!

Brian HL
September 2012

I also changed the capacitor and it worked for me. make sure before you do any thing turn the electricity and gas off. I got it from Maplin for 39p. mine is a Rangemaster 1100 gas top and gas oven about 15 years old. I unscrewed the 3 small screws at the back top of the cooker. Then took all the nobs including the ignition button and the light buttons and clock buttons out. I then took the 6 screws on top out which are 4 on the burner side and 2 on the grill side. I then lifted the burner side and pushed the grill and warmer side to the right. ( you may have to tap it a bit or play with it to come out of it's slots, but it will come out. Then unscrew the top and bottom screw and you will get to clock. when changing the capacitor make sure the Negative and positive are in the correct way it has a negative marking on the capacitor. take pictures if your work and components so you can refer to it when needed. good luck and thank you to all other guys that helped me on this site.

frank
June 2012

Brilliant. Maplin only had a 50 volt 220 UF capacitor but it solved the problem. Total cost 39p plus 4 miles in the car. Thanks so much for the helpful advice

Derek Riley
June 2012

ive got a Leisure Naples range cooker; not the Rangemaster 110; my clock has stopped and hence the oven has stopped; i got to the clock and its got 4 lots of wires going into the clock; 2 on each side; not a blue wire in sight; there are white wires on each side; one which goes to the main oven switch, and one which goes to the other oven switch, but this isnt controlled by the clok; the other wires are yellow and brown; ive no idea how to find out which wires to cross to disable the clock; any ideas?

Greggie
March 2012

Changing the capacitor as per Mikes instructions also worked for me.

I could not get a capacitor from Maplins that had a temperature range of up to 125 degrees, they only had ones up to 105 degrees. I got mine from RS Components, downside is they only sell in packs of 10 which cost around 7 pounds. I still have 9 left so if any one wants one then they can mail me at rsdulai at googlemail dot com. I took the circuit board out as per Mikes instructions and took both the capacitor and the circuit board to my local TV/Phone repairs shop and they did the soldering for me for 1 pound.

Bill
March 2012

hi guys
i awoke this morning to find the timer on my Rangemaster 110 flashing...yes we had a small power cut overnight and the last time this happened i spent ages trying to reset. this time after an hour i thought 'new cooker' then i found this on google and following advice from here successfully disarmed the timer and all is working again. like most others i have never in 13 years used the timer and so to disable it was the key...thank you to all who gave their advice.

jonboy196401
January 2012

Outstanding post. Big thanks to Mark especially for the info on the 220uf cap. Just done this on a relatives cooker and the clock is now working a treat. Looks like Leasure has a stock fault with thier clock units. So to all change the 220uf for ~ £0.30 from Maplins for a high temp cap and you are likely to be done, saving around £70 parts and £50 labour - Thanks again to all for sharing this info.

Brian
January 2012

Hi
Thanks to all the comments here did ours yesterday.Main issue I had was realising right hand top (with griddle in) Just to confirm you need to take out the six screws visable in the top hob trays (four on the left and two on the right) then right hand half slides out to the right before you can lift it enough to get at the facia screws. I needed to do this since the wiring of the clock is shielded by a metal plate. Having released the facia it pulls forward enough to take off the two blue wires. I fixed these together easily as one has a piggy back connection for the other. Taped these up to insulate from the metal surfaces and reassembled.
Sure enough clock stops working but the ovens do result.
A word of warning just move things carefully as everything is attached with wires that you do not want either coming off or breaking.
Once again Thanks to all we never used the clock facility anyway

Rob
November 2011

Excellent advise. Ours only had one blue wire but isolated that and everything working great. Only needed to take top off (griddle and hotplate side) and could access back of clock from there - no need to take front off. Hardest part pulling cooker out. Thanks everyone.

JJ
October 2011

Brilliant - the real hassle was getting the Rangemaster out of its tight space in the worktop.

There was a slight difference on our model with respect to the blue wires at the back of the clock. Our Rangemaster only had one blue wire in a plastic connector housing. Detached that from the PCB, insulated it and then on turning the power on the ovens now work. Might be of use to others, as I spent five minutes hunting for the mysterious "second blue wire on the clock".

Off to buy a chicken for Sunday lunch to celebrate the working ovens!

Thanks for the tips on how to repair.

Mac
September 2011

Hi
Rangemaster 110/oven /clock/failure;( & once again, Disc from 240 v first ;o)
No one seems to have mentioned re; the blue wires. They need to be disconnected from the rear of the clock, suitably insulating, and then just posting back behind the clock, but NOT re connecting to the clock. Would suggest strip back/solder/sleeve, rather than leave the push connector there. The clock won't work, but all other functions are ok.

Dave
September 2011

Changed capacitor as suggested by Mike ( March 2011 ) it also worked for me, 29 pence, cooking wonderful.

Tony
September 2011

Had Flavel Leisure Professional 55 auto with flashing clock.
Dissassembled it to try hooking up 2 blue wires as mentioned above but different colour-coding and no male/female connectors so changed 220uF cap on board `blind` and now it works fine. Thanks a million for great advice.

Adrian Parsons
June 2011

It's not necessary to pull the cooker out. Simply remove the knobs, remove the 6 screws securing the hob trays - this enables you to raise the front of the hob trays enough to use a stubby phillips screwdriver to remove the 4 set screws on the top of the facia panel. The 5 screws below the facia panel are easily accessible and you can then pull the facia panel forward and access the clock which is replaced as described in previous answers. Took me 10 minutes plus half an hour to clean the grease off exposed surfaces!!!

Julian
May 2011

Heres how I fixed mine, I managed to get the clock back to full functionality without replacing it.

Fault;

first was unable to set time.

Eventually clock would not allow oven to operate.

Repair:

( I accept no liability for damage or injury for anyone that follows this instruction. I merely describe how I fixed my own oven.)

I removed the timer as described.

I then carefully removed the PCB from the timer by easing it past the plastic tangs that hold it, easing each tang gently back one by one.

I traced the fault to the large 220 UF capacitor.

I replaced the capacitor with one from my bits box (the repair cost me Nothing)

I reassembled and the oven worked perfectly.

Again this worked for me but I dont know how long it will last. capacitors are quite intolerant devices and their values can change in time, especially in the high temparatures in the rangemaster.

Its possible that most of the failed timers could have been repaired by changing this 1 dollar item.

If changing this capacitor mark the polarity on the PCB before you unsolder it.

Polarity is clearly marked on the device with a -Ve stripe.

DO NOT solder the new capacitor in the wrong way round... it will probobly go bang!

Also please ensure you buy a 220UF electrolytic capacitor of at least 25V rating... you can probobly go higher on the voltage rating but dont go lower.

Also please ensure the temparature rating is the same, mine was rated at -55 to 125 celcius. (Hot oven)

Please only attempt this repair if you are competant to do so.

Mike
March 2011

When the clock fails the gas in each of the main ovens doesn't work so if you disconnect as described the oven will then work. (I hadn't appreciated that from reading the threads as it all seemed to relate to the clock). Note when you disconnect the two blue wires from the back of the clock fitting, they need to be reconnected together (female on to male - female is housed in plastic cover, male is metal, no cover) before you insulate the end. I made the mistake of insulating both wires separately and when I reconnected everything, the ovens still didn't work so I had to repeat the procedure. It does work though. As for a new clock I'll go for a traditional clock timer.

Bento
March 2011

Happened to our 1996 Rangemaster 110
Problem: Timer display continually flashing; showing auto.; unable to set time etc.. no oven function.

Replacement Timer: Fm EBay cost £62 including post.
- quote cooker model / serial number from right hand chassis upright by bottom oven drawer
[While waiting for timer to arrive could get cooker to fucntion by: i) turning on griddle ii) warming plate: i.e. heat = temporary fix which suggests dry joint on the PCB: not surprising after 12 years of hot / cold cycles. Reset gives a click: igniter lights oven...]

REPAIR GUIDE - Turn electricity off!
- Pull cooker out.
- Remove 4 screws round left hand hotplate hob tray [having removed pan supports and burner fittings]
- Remove 2 screws from griddle tray: ease right hand hob to the RIGHT about 3cm. [Having remove griddle / burner fittings]
- These 2 steps allow access to set screws holding fixing into the top of the facia panel when lifting up the hobs from the front
- Remove facia control knobs; light switches; timer buttons etc..
- Remove self-tapping screw from below facia panel; note a separate screw locates the time mounting plate
- Take quick digital pic of wiring into old timer; remove wiring connections; timer mounting: unclip old timer from mounting plate and replace with new; wire up correctly (check digi pic!).
- Re-assemble and turn power on.
- Most time was taken clean greasy gunk to put a nice clean cooker back into place!!!

Paul M Hart
December 2010

Just had exactly the same thing happen to me. Timer continually flashing and showing auto. Unable to set to manual. The instructions posted below really do work. Who cares about the clock....my oven works!!! Takes about 20 mins. Take your time and just be careful when you slide the right hand cover to the right after removing the screws. You don't have to treat it like cotton wool but jst be careful not to yank it too far up when you lift it to get at the blue wires. Many thanks.

Rob, Dorset
December 2010

Hi Everyone,
Just wanted to say thanks to everyone with the answer on how to overide timer and to replace the clock. I am waiting for the new clock to be delivered to me, however in the meantime at least I can have the ovens working by removing the blue wires from the clock, joining back up and insulating. Very easy to do this and was completed in 15mins. The fun will be in replacing the clock (as and when it arrives!), best to shop around for a clock as there are widely differing prices and always quote your model and serial number found on the right hand chassis upright behind the bottom oven drawer as this will help identify your type of clock. Finally my oven is 14 years old so it appears it was bound to go at anytime anyway.

Thanks

Simon
October 2010

excellent instructions:

...and, if you are replacing the clock, as I just did (from TD Spares), you will need to:

- Loosen the left side of the Hob as per instructions for the right side

- pull off all the knobs from the front of the cooker and remove the 4 screws above and the 4 screws below the control panel facia to be able to remove the clock, replace it, and then reverse the above steps.

Bill
October 2010

You need to electrically connect the two blue wires together - you can do this by inserting the male one (it has a "U" shaped connector) into the female one (has a plasic cover on - insert male into the hole - they fit side -by-side) and then insulating with insulating tape.

Nik
September 2010

Ruby

You are a star with the info about the Leisure 110 - brilliant; works a treat now!!

Thanks very much indeed.

Rob

Trambuster
April 2010

Hello Everyone,
I have an all electric Rangemaster 110 which is about 11 yrs old and it needs a new clock/timer assembly. Has anyone any idea how to get into the clock section to do a repair? Don't think it is accessable from the back of cooker but there are some screws under front facia.

Mick
March 2010

I have a Leisure Rangemaster 110 cooker which is over 9yrs old and my clock/timer is not displaying properly. I have been in touch with Rangemaster and their replacement part is no longer an exact fit for my cooker. Does anyone else have this problem? Is my only alternative to disconnect the clock/timer altogether?

Ruby
January 2010

Yes it seem to be a common fault after 10 or 12 years It was very easy to do once you know how to get the right hand top off. Pull oven partly out disconnect gas and electrics . Pull the cooker right out so you can get behind it , unsrew the screws that go through the vented plate that runs along the back. Lift off the griddle plate .there are 2 screws to the left ,take them out,the right side then slides to the right before you lift it .dont lift it too high you need to unclip th 2 green earth leads and the one to the ignighter.This done you will see a cover over the clock 2 screws at the top take them out to remove the cover. If you dont use the timer just take off the blue wires 2 go into a plastic clip on the right side of the clock ond insulate them with electrical tape the ovens will opperate ok but the clock will be dead .If you buy a new clock just make a note of where the wires clip on and put eveything back as it was .NOTE the top slides in from the right keeping it horizontal because it has to go under a nut , if you dont get it under this nut the class top will not shut . Hope this is of help.

J I SCOTT
December 2009

Great guide - many thanks.

BTW everything works apart form the clock after this (igniter)

Ben
October 2009

if i disconect the blue neutral so the ovens work and the clock is dead?wil;l the ignighter still work or will i have to light with a match

stuart
July 2009

Thanks for those instructions. Took me 15 mins to do the job. My range is 13 years old, seems they have built in breakdown timer about this age.
Rangemaster wanted £110 to do this job.

Cheers

Nige
January 2009

Pull the ranges out.
Get behind them lift the glass lid up to access screws these screws are horizontal and go through the oven/grill fretted top panel. each hotplate has two scews at each end.
At the front of the cooker remove right hand hotplate pan supports remove four screws hidden by pan supports lift hotplate slightly out of the way ignition leads are attached so be carefull. Lift out griddle remove two screws NOTE this hotplate then slides to the right, lift carefuuly to one side ignition leads are attached and warming zone electrical connections. Make sure power is off, pull the blue neutral lead of off the back of the timer wrap it in insulating tape refit everything, Clock dead. Ovens work manually only. but you would not do this work if you were not corgi registered would you ?

gasbanni
December 2008

I too have exactly the same problem with a 10 year old Rangemaster 110. Can anybody tell me how to release the top right hand side, in order to access and replace the timer unit. I have undone all the screws I can find but to no avail! (Most of them have gone bqack OK). I have been quoted £50 for a replacement timer + £50 call out + £50 labour = £150 from a local repairer, which I think is a bit much!!

Rob (Shrewsbury UK)
December 2008

I bought mine from apart4u.com. you need to take the old one out first to identify it as there are different ones.the wires are push fit but make a sketch first before disconnecting with the wire colours identified.
the buttons on the front pull off. Replacement is reversal of taking out.

Mike
December 2008

I have the same problem and strangely enough my cooker is the same age. I believe it needs a new clock but the prices vary between £80-100 plus labour. I have tried to strip the cooker down to access the clock but cant get the top off the right hand side.

Mark
November 2008