Triton T80i has worked well for many years (not my fitment- but I am guessing at about 10years) but has recently stopped delivering hot water. The heater is not working at all because there is no temperature difference between hot and cold settings. Pressure at the shower head still seems good. We are in East Andlia, a known hard water area and I'm wondering if something has gunged up with time or if the Triton has a limited life expectation on say the heater element or pressure switch. Any guidance/advice befor I take the cover off would be appreciated.
After pressing the on switch the shower has started to turn off and on, quite irractic
Karen
May 2009
We had a similar issue after about 5 years with a T80i: switches kept burning out. Solution: replace the switches, and add (in the wall cavity behind the shower unit) a couple of industrial contactors to handle the 40 amp loads. The original heating coil wires were taken to the contactor trigger circuit, the contactor switched power was returned to the heating coils. This results in all the Triton swiches and circuits handling only a miniscule triggering current: the contactors do the heating coil switching. Shower has run trouble free ever since. Show this to your friendly local electrician and s/he will understand it.
Wayne
June 2006
Call the Triton technical helpline on 024 7637 2222. I had a problem with my Triton Bermuda (Older version of T80i) and it was diagnosed in a 5 minute phone call. I need a new solenoid which is £28 which makes it almost worth getting a new shower. Have a look at the Triton website (http://www.tritonshowers.co.uk/index.php3) for more info, price of spare parts etc.
Kev
March 2005
I have now had the cover off and looked around. There's not a lot to go wrong is there, just lots of wires. Upon examination, the top lead on the outlet assembly temperature switch (I presume that's what it is) has melted the push on connector insulating boot. The push on connector is now brown/black indicating overheating. The brown cable from this connector is in tact and goes up to the switch which selects the 0/1/2 heaters. I am now presuming that the power to the heaters is ultimately controlled by this switch and it seems to need replacing. Comments and advice will still be useful. Thanks
Russ Sadler
March 2005
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