Kenmore Series 80 washer won't spin SOMETIMES?

My washer want spin can you tell me how to fix it

Sheena Jarvis
February 2011

Found and fixed a similar problem with our Series 80. During the spin cycle, the tub wouldn't spin and the washer started making a loud clicking noise. The water pump was working fine, i.e. water was coming out of the hose. Turned out to be a broken plastic coupler piece. The motor shaft spinning inside it was making the clicking noise.

Follow the illustrated repair process at http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html - see part 5 (replace or check motor coupling) in particular, although the other steps show how to remove the cabinet from the front and get to the coupler.

I ordered a replacement coupler, part # 2858542A, from http://www.dryerpartsonline.com/ for $20 plus shipping. (I've used them before to get a replacement dryer part.) The newer couplers are available with a metal-reinforced hole in the coupler so the plastic won't split as easily.

Eric
January 2010

My son-in-law puts TOO MUCH, TOO HEAVY amounts in the washer. Also, it needs to be balanced. These things will cause it to not be able to spin. Try lighter, balanced loads (for example if you're doing a pillow, put in a second pillow placed carefully across from the first) and see if that helps. Good luck.

jill charrier
November 2009

This has happened now twice to my washer.
both times with a full load of towels... when you see the damage youll know why.

The problem is a plastic "gear" mechanism between the motor and the drain pump gets shredded.

Not sure why these were made from plastic as theres a rubber coupling between the 2 of these plastic gears... bad design.

Easy fix:
only need a 1/4" wrench.
1 Turn the washer over to get at the bottom.
2 there are 2 straps that hold the motor in place.
each is held in by a small 1/4" sheet metal screw.
remove the screw from the bottom strap and the other on the top strap and remove both.
3. the motor will fall out and you will see your shredded "gear"
in between the motor and pump. you may want to remove the metal plate that stabilizes the motor, to remove the inner one more easy. its just the 2 bolts youll see there.
4. get the part from kenmore or sears... ill do it tomorrow.
5 slip them into place as they were before, with the rubber couple in between and reassemble.

its that easy.

big t
December 2007

Okay. After further digging on the Web, I think my problem may *not* be solved by any of the suggestions that have already been offered. My machine is direct-drive and does not have a solenoid-actuated "wig-wag" described by Sputnick. Based on the exact symptoms described, it seems very likely that my timer is bad. The washing machine is a "neutral drain" design, and the timer is supposed to briefly pause the motor about a minute or two after pump-out begins. This pause causes the "neutral drain assembly" to shift the transmission into spin mode (recognized by that clunking sound). Just as you would expect, any pause during pump-out (opening/closing the lid) will produce the same effect. But if the timer is defective/worn, the "automatic" pause is never supplied so the transmission never shifts into the spin mode.

If you determine that the motor *is* briefly pausing a minute or two after pump-out begins (and if it still won't engage the spin mode), then the problem is likely to be within the "neutral drain assembly" which is buried within the transmission (google on "neutral drain kit", etc).

RobC
December 2007

Sputnick -- I think your suggestion re: the $28 part (electromagnet) is probably the solution. Sorry I didn't notice it before posting.

RobC
December 2007

I've got exactly the same symptoms here. Haven't yet found a diagnosis or solution. The problem seems unrelated to the lid switch (unless the switch has multiple sets of contacts?), but maybe the switch drives a relay that has sticky contacts? It's clear that the machine already recognizes that the lid is closed (as evidenced by the fact that "pump out" immediately stops once the lid is raised). So, it seems to me that the lid switch is not the culprit.

The "thunk" that others have described sounds like a brake or solenoid releasing, but it occurs a second or two after the lid has been raised, which coincides with the motor coming to a stop. Is there a centrifugal switch in the motor? Anyway, it's pretty strange and I'd sure welcome an explanation. An electrical schematic would probably help a lot...

RobC
December 2007

Bill It sounds like you lid switch is having problems engaging. Look at you lid the projection that goes in the hole is where you switch is, try to manual push on it with you little finger when the lid is open and move the timer to spin

Sputnick
March 2007

Try this web site and pay attention to number 9 MAGNET 365998 on the drawing. It is a electromagnic that engages the spin/aggitae and water pump. Remover the back cover of the washer. take a multimeter and put it on ohms and touch the two post on each magnet (unplug washer and two wires to the magnet). If you have a open "OL" the that side is bad. If you have resistence any number, then it is good and I would chech the wires leading to the top.
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImagePageJava.shtml?productTypeID=0153200&brandID=0582&modelDesc=ELECTRIC%20WASHER&modelNumber=11082380800&documentID=00039616&documentTypeID=PLDM&documentClassCode=PM&titleType=DRIVE%20PARTS&titleID=00002&

I paid $28.00 for a new one at Sears and it did the trick, hope it helps you!

Sputnick
March 2007

I have one too that does the same thing. The water begins to drain but no spin. If I raise the lid, then shut it, I hear a clunk sound and it begins to spin. Any help would be appreciated!

Bill
March 2007

My Kenmore 80 series is doing the exact same thing, do the half turn then it will spin out. If you get an answer please let me know!

Melissa Thomas
December 2006

Hi Scott,

My series 80 just started the exact same behavior. Did you ever yet yours resoved?

Brian Plunkett
November 2006