daf lf 45/150 wont start?

hi what was out come of this job

stephen cunningham
February 2018

Hi im a mechanic and Iv never seen anything like this before this guy ran out of fule and then went to gas station to get some diesel so he put diesel in and now won't start can this be a trip off switch or can it be the ECU what needs resetting need help please
From
Leslie

Daf LF won't start
January 2016

Hi the fault with no revs for about 20 seconds it's usually oil cooler gasket blown there are 2 oil ways and the gasket goes causing low oil pressure replace both gaskets and Bob's your uncle

Rich
February 2015

I have a 06 LF45.150, everytime you strat it after not run for couple ours it will not rev up. been on davie cant find nothing although low oil presssure chime rings untill it finaly lets you rev it,, does anyone know if there is a low eng oil pressure device fitted which prevents engine from reving

jon b
September 2013

thanks for letting us know the outcome

norb
January 2012

Thanks for your help in this. I have now taken a daf engineer out to the wagon and with his davie he started it. Everything points to the imobiliser ecu, as the when the engine is turned of for over 5 mins it losses the code from the key and has to have it recoded again. Thanks for your help in this again.

steve
January 2012

I work in a DAF dealership .

norb
January 2012

Thanks for your help, Iam not certain that the fuel is not the issue, just running out of ideas. Do you work on DAFs have you a davey ?

steve
January 2012

The immobilisera on the LF are pretty bullet proof,though that's not to say it can't fail..Generally if you have an immo fault ,the engine will fire for a couple of seconds then just spin over ....If you are certain the fuel side is ok ,then it will probably be a wiring issue ,and on that it can be anything .I wouldn't know how to by pass the immo,you can check it for it's feed and it's can resistance

norb
January 2012

no tried that didnt make any differance, could it be the imbobiliser, can I wire around it to check

steve
January 2012

pull the plug of the M-prop valve on the main fuel pump..does it start and run ??? IGNORE WARNING ON DASH

norb
January 2012

thanks, yes I have checked the key,it has its glass chip in it and seams intacked. The rail dose have fuel there when cranking over after a short while but not at first. I have been trying for some while to start it and the batteries have been charged. when I first had the problem, if I turned the key straight away all the way round to start it the engine would fire but not for long and wouldnt rev. If however I put the key in and waited for it to go through its checks, it wouldnt fire at all.
I am struggling to work out if its electrical or fuel.

steve
January 2012

Flywheel shouldn't be an issue ,crank sensor is on the front pulley ,so make sure sensor isn't broke or exciter ring damaged,the cam sensor is tucked away behind the compressor so should be ok.
the white wires are earths ,though scotch block are crap best solder them .if you don't have earth then it won't start..
a couple of common issues ,is the chip for the immobiliser secure inside the key ??you can simply prise the 2 halfs of the key apart ,but be careful not to drop the glass chip ,it sits in a slot ,if it isn't in it then you have starting issues...another issue the LF has ,is the filter housing on the tank ,,is chokes up with crap from the tank ,easy to strip and clean ,generally if you remove the large brass nut you will see debri restricting fuel flow

also make sure the batteries are fully charged as below 19volts when cranking the ecu shuts down

did you have fuel at the common rail with the engine spinning over on the starter??

norb
January 2012

Hi thanks, the daf lad was french, his boss wasnt kean on him being there for to long ( fair enough ) and his english was as good as my french ( primary school, I now know his name and the time ) No the fuel would not have been contaimineted, I have removed the fuel line to the rail, to start with I didnt see fuel but after a while I did. I think I did remove the pump to achieve free flow, no differance. When the daf lad started he removed the ecu conection and its case, I saw that there were 3 white wires linked with a wire and 2 scotch locks, when he finished looking these had been removed ? dont no. I woundered if the fly wheel sensor could be a problem, in trying to get it out of the mud the cluch stank, burnt, could the fly wheel be and issue, if so how do you check this.

steve
January 2012

did the daf lad give you any fault codes ???..if the warning was on DAVIE would have a pending error,if the warning is out there will be a stored error...

ignoring elec faults for the minute ,did you get any mud /water in the fuel tank ???

remove the metal feed pipe to the common rail,spin the engine over a see if you are getting any fuel..if no fuel then the fault lies back towards the tank ,if all fuel lines are clear etc then the pump will be at fault ..
modern fuel systems are delicate to contaminated fuel

if you remove the plug from the main fuel pump it should deliver max rail pressure to the rail and the it should start,though you will have a red engine warning and it will sound like a bag of bolts,putting the plug back on will put out the warning ,and if it continues running it will sound ok

electrically wise an 8 year old LF won't be in the best of health ,wiring is a weakness...make sure ecu is secure to the engine as the bobbins wear and the vibration can ruin the ecu ,make sure plugs on the ecu have their covers fitted ..in the main plug there is a set of twisted wires ,blue and yellow ,that is your can ,about 6 inches back from the plug there is the resistor you can either visually check it ,or do a resistance check with the ignition off ,if ok you get 60 ohms if faulty 120 ohms,also check your feeds at the ecu

sorry there is a lot there ,but with out fault codes it's hard to pinpoint the fault

norb
January 2012