This is a painful job and not easy.
You need to drain the gearbox oil first, as this job involves removing the complete driveshaft from the differential (which is part of the gearbox).
Loosen but do not remove wheelnuts on affected side while car is on the ground. Likewise remove split pin from driveshaft hub nut and loosen nut. Jack up car and support on pair of axle stands placed at correct jack support points. Remove road wheel.
Drain gearbox oil.
Remove brake caliper from hub and support using wire or strong twine tied to the helical spring - i.e. don't leave it hanging by the brake hose!
Disconnect track rod arm/steering arm from hub by removing split pin and then separating ball joint - a special ball joint separator tool is needed.
Next remove the 2 bolts which attach the hub to the bottom of the shock absorber mounting. Now pull hub outwards and downwards while pushing drive shaft through the hub.
Now get yourself into view of the inboard end of the driveshaft. Using a big wide, flat screwdriver or a prybar, carefully prise the driveshaft out of the seal and gearbox housing.
This is only the half way point. Everything up to this was in aid of removing the drive shaft! The left hand one is shorter than the right hand drive shaft and therfore a bit easier to handle.
Remove driveshaft to the workshop/bench!
There are 2 CV joints on each driveshaft - so you have an inboard or an outboard gaiter to replace. Remove the damaged gaiter by cutting off the old clips using a junior hacksaw or pincers. Slide back the old gaiter to reveal the CV joint.
Before dismantling, place an alignment mark on the joint race and shaft - they must go back the same way. The shaft is splined into the CV jont inner race and retained by circlips/snap rings. These must be removed and ideally new ones should be used on re-assembly. This is the dangerous bit - wear goggles as the rings could break or fly. Separate the joint from the shaft. Slide the new gaiter over the shaft. Fix in place with the O-clip provided (special pliers for crimping these but can be done with an ordinary pliers if careful). Reassemble shaft to joint (with new retaining clips if possible). Pack gaiter with new grease (supplied iwth CV boot/gaiter kit) having first removed old grease from joint. Slide othe rend over CV joint and crimp O-clip to secure boot in place.
Note: if boot is torn and has been for some time, the CV joint will have been exposed to grit, dirt,water etc and this may mean that the joint is badly worn. If so there is no point in replacing the boot without first replacing the CV joint. You'll know if it is u/s if the cv joint makes a loud clicking noise when the car is driven very slowly around in circles at full lock in a car park.
Back to car. Carefully re-fit driveshaft into gearbox. If drive shaft oil seal is damaged in the process it will leak and have to be replaced, so don't damage it. No harm to replace this item anyway when you have the opportunity.
Re-fit all components in reverse order and tighten the various bolts to the correct torques. Re-fill gearbox with oil.
JD
March 2011
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