Okay then, here's the simple way, done simply. You will need a 'bluntish' knife from your cutlery drawer and a 'T20H' (male) star-drive bit. Don't forget the bulbs (286 12v WEDGE) which are available on Ebay in packs of 10. Believe me, I used 8 and it was a 'little' dim! On the plus side, I found that I have a temperature gauge now! (My Merc has 1 bulb for all!)
Anyway, The knife is used to gently pop the black surround out of the dash, which it will do very easily. Next, you will need to undo the 2no. screws on either side of the 'binnacle'. Next you need to pop (again) the display unit out of the dash. Put a finger under the little flat bits of moulding on either side of the binnacle and pull up and towards you. Upon pulling this away from the dash, there are two connectors on either side, which are detached by pushing in the little springy bit of plastic on the top and sliding the little plastic hoop over to the side. You may now pull out the whole thing (to the kitchen worktop and a glass of wine) and, using some forceps or small pliers, twist and pull each bulb-holder in turn, replacing the 'dud' as you go. (It should be blackened, but make sure by having a good look) When you think that you have finished, try it out first to make sure before you screw it all back in. After you have finished, feel free to run up and down with your arms in the air, just like Spain did. (Boo) I surely hope that this puts this question to bed.
James.
August 2010