I've got one of those and it develops the same problem about once a year. I have to dismantle it and re-lubricate the O-rings. It looks quite frightening the first time you do it, but now I can do the job in about half an hour.
Here's the procedure:
Turn off the hot and cold supplies.
Turn the shower on and off briefly to check that the supplies are really off.
Remove the front panel and the control knobs (they are all just push-fit).
Loosen the two push-fit connections to the incoming copper pipes. Each one is a grey plastic ring that slides over the copper pipe. Push the ring towards the body of the shower until it won't go any further. I use an adjustable spanner set just wider than the pipe diameter (15 mm) to push and tap the ring upwards until it's loose.
Remove the output tube - the one that protrudes downwards from the mixer body. It's held onto the rear casing by two screws. Don't lose the O-ring inside it.
Remove the three screws holding the rear casing to the wall. I know, it sounds like too much work, but I find that I can't release the mixer from the pipes otherwise.
Remove the four screws holding the mixer to the rear casing.
Now you can lift the mixer up whilst tilting it away from the wall and wiggling it from side to side, and it should come off the supply pipes.
Place the mixer on an absorbent mat, because lots of water is going to leak out when you dismantle it. Place it the same way round as it was installed, with the inlets at the bottom and the hot inlet on the left.
Pull off the hot inlet valve. It's a self-contained bit of tube about 30 mm long with some moving parts inside it.
Behind the hot inlet valve, up inside the mixer, is a wire mesh filter. Gently work it out with your finger.
Moving to the top of the mixer, there is a plastic head section held on with screws. Keep the metal plate with its gasket attached to the head section. Just remove enough screws to release the head section from the main body. At least one of these screws also goes through the metal plate. It takes a bit of effort to prise the head off the main body, because it's held on by several O-rings.
With the head section removed, you will see a plastic plunger on top of the hot inlet. The plunger has two crossing ribs on top, like a hot cross bun. It should move freely up and down, but it tends to get stuck. This is what causes the shower to drip and ultimately completely fail to shut off the hot water.
To remove the plunger, turn the mixer upside down and look into the tube from which you removed the wire mesh filter. There is a screw up there, which you need to remove BUT HOLD ON TO THE PLUNGER to prevent it from being fired out by its spring!
Lubricate the plunger's large O-ring with silicone grease.
As they say in the Haynes manuals, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
When fitting the mixer back onto the copper pipes, don't forget to push the press-fit rings back down onto the pipes as far as they will go. It doesn't hurt to re-lubricate the O-rings in there as well.
Fenambulist
May 2010