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Fisher & Paykel Washing Machine GW601-K water inlet issue?

Hi there,

My washing machine GW601-K has problem with filling water in the tub. I always use cold water on it.

It fills water normal at the first few minutes after start, then the sound of water valve starts becoming abnormal, accompanied with the reduced water flow if you look inside the lid. Within seconds the water flow will reduce to nearly none, with the sound from water valve like choking. I used to turn it off, wait for 10 minutes and turn it back on, sometime it will manage to finish filling water. And once it fills water for the first run, it will be fine all the way to finish.

I bought a brand new water valve from Fisher & Paykel spare part shop, installed it but it is still the same. I measured the voltage of the water valve while letting it running, what I can see is that when the water flow starts reducing, the voltage increases. Most of the time the voltage stays at around 8.5V. When the water flow is still normal, the voltage is around 6.5V. Water valve has a rated voltage 12V written on its label. Interesting thing is that when I only selected cold water for washing, I can measure voltage from the hot water valve as well. Not sure if that is also a symptom of fault, as I suppose if the machine doesn't need hot water, it shouldn't feed power to hot water valve.

What could have gone wrong? the control module? I have not access to the service manual, don't know where to look into in order to find out if the water valve power circuit is OK or not.

Also how to run the diagnostic process on my machine? I was told some procedures that works on other model of Fisher & Paykel's washing machine, but they don't work on mine.

Much appreciate your help!!

Johnmen
May 2009

Fisher & Paykel Household Appliances, Washing Machines Fisher Paykel Washing Machine

I really appreciate your help. I think I have got it all working now. I figured that the tub needed to be empty before I put the air hose back as the air pressure won't be correct in the hose. However, I didn't blow air into the hose to remove any water, but the machine seems now working fine after I emtpied the tub and re-installed the air hose again.

I didn't know that it uses proportional water valve for cold water, thanks for that info as well. As I used to think about swapping the water valves and hope it will work.

Johnmen
May 2009

Ok sounds good so far. The extreme left hand (long wash) light is the coldest temperature so I always put the cold setting on this level. The smartdrive has a proportional inlet valve for cold & a standard inlet valve for hot. A standard inlet valve will open fully when power is on. The opening in a proportional valve can be regulated by changing the voltage. So the controller will adjust this voltage & open & close off the inlet to adjust how much cold enters in order to achieve the correct temperature. That sounds like what was happening when you said the sound changed & the flow decreased. Before you connect the air pressure tube you must make sure the bowl is completely empty of water. Disconnect the tube & run the pump until empty. Blow down the tube to clear any water back into the bowl then connect tube to pressure sensor on controller.

Lincoln Appliance NZ
May 2009

I have gone through some questions in this forum, and believe Fisher & Paykel washing machine uses the air operated switch to sense the water level. There is a air hose with a blue wire inside connects to a round component in the top right corner of the controller module, that mush be the water level switch, isn't it?

I think when I opened and installed the water inlet valve, I must have not installed the water level switch hose properly. What should I be aware of when putting that water level air hose back?

Johnmen
May 2009

Thanks for the reply. I followed your instruction and here is the result:

Once the cold wash is selected by pressing the temp.down few times, the light that is on is not the extreme left hand light. top row has 8 lights if excluding 3 lights for delay washing. Starting from "long wash", between "long wash" and "short wash" there are 3 lights, then "rinse", "final rinse" and "spin". When the cold wash is selected, it is the light on the right of the "long wash" that is on, counting from the left it is the second light.

From that moment, press temp.up once, both "cold" and "warm" are on, light hops to "short wash", which is fifth light from left. Carry on pressing temp.up until hot is selected, light will hop to "spin".

In short, yes the light hops every two places right as expected. However, the cold wash temp's light is not the extreme left hand light.

I have adjusted the temp as follows:
"cold wash": long wash light on
"cold / warm" or "warm / hot": short wash light on
"hot wash": spin light on

Then when I try it, water seems to be flowing in fine. However, I seem to have a new problem, water filling doesn't stop despite that I selected "low" water level.
It filled water all the way to spilling, I had to stop it before water actually spills

What should I do now?

Johnmen
May 2009

Sounds like a problem with the motor controller changing the voltage when it shouldn't be. First though, check the water temperature setting. Power on at wall but off at panel. Press & hold start/pause button and then power on button. Press wash temp.down until cold wash is selected. Top row light should be on extreme left hand light (coldest setting) Each time you now press the wash temp. up button the light should move at least two places right. Adjust with the advance button until light is on in correct place. Then power off. That will lock in the temperatures. Try machine. If still the same problem, post back & I will suggest something else. The voltage on the hot valve is normal. Power is on all the time and it switches the negative line to achieve the circuit when needed.

Lincoln Appliance NZ
May 2009