OK, back again after a long while, blew the dust of the LG DR175 and had another go at fixing it bearing in mind what others have said.
The fault (unit turning itself on and off, menus scrolling all by themselves) is caused by a faulty button on the top of the front panel. In my case it was easy as it was the power button that had failed. More below...
What's going on?
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The power button was measuring between 2 - 6Kohms across its contacts when not depressed (it should be inifinity i.e. totally open and zero reistance when depressed). By the way, this coincided with a 2kohm measurment across the Down Prog button but that went back to normal (open) as soon as the power button was taken out of circuit (and goes someway to explain why the menus are scrolling down as if somone is holding the down-button constantly). Initially some Servisol switch cleaner and compressed air seemed to fix it but the problem was back around an hour or so later. Clearly the switch has failed. So, in the end I just took power button out of circuit and now exclusively use the remote control to switch the unit in and out of stand-by (which I always did anyway).
The details of how to fix it
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1. Unplug the unit from the mains.
2. remove the 9 screws and slide off the metal cover.
3. Whilst doing an impression of an octopuss you need to unlatch 7 clips holding the font panel on, simultaneously easing the plastic front panel off. You can pull out the ribbon cable linking the font panel to the main circuit board in order to work on it easier.
4. If you have a test meter, measure across the power button contacts. If is anything other than infinity (i.e. open circuit) then you have the same fault as me and can disconnect the power button to fix it. If you don't have a test meter then you can disconnect it anyway as a trial and error process.
5. On the left, the power button is mounted on its own little circuit board with two wires leading to it from the other side of the panel with a surface-mount 2-pin plug/socket (there are no other components on that little board). Don't try to yank the plug out in-situ because it is sort-of locked in and you might damage the socket/board making a proper future repair more diffcult. Undo the single screw, take out the board and use a small flat-bladed screwdriver into the grooves on the other side of the socket to gently push the plug out. Screw the board back in place.
6. Do rememeber to tape down the flying wire inside the front panel so that it doesn't get trapped (particularly where it runs near the DVD door opening/hinge).
7. If you have an ohm meter, all the contact pairs on all the remaining buttons on the other side of the panel should read infinity (open). If any of them have a resistance or a short when not depressed then you may have another faulty button and you'll have to find a way yourself to take those out of circuit.
8. When done, snap the front panel back in place, remembering to re-attach the ribbon cable from the front panel to the main board. Refit the metal cover and prepare to test.
9. Plug in, power up (obviously you'll now only be able to use the remote to switch it in and out of stand-by), insert a DVD-R and test out the menus. All should be working normally now.
10. For a proper fix you could source an equivalent surface mount subminiture switch. It just has to be so a momentary action type. There is plenty of room to drill a hole and fit a much more substantial switch alongside the original but if you de-solder the old surface mount one from the little circuit board then you could even epoxy a larger new one in the correct position on the board underneath the original button top.
That's it.
Kris
December 2010