Kenmore series 90 washing machine won't spin or agitate?

my kenmore 90 series won't spin the drum or anything but it will drain... any suggests

t.p
November 2012

My whasher will agitate but will not spin or pump the water out can anyone help? Thanks

Dan
August 2012

I have just installed a replacement "Timer" in my Kenmore washer, Model 110.289224790. The machine started up fine and ran a small "pre-wash" load without incident until the per-wash ended and the machine didn't shut down as normal. Instead it buzzed an alarm. The machine was stopped manually, filled with the rest of the load and a wash cycle was begun. The machine filled with water and then stopped. I pulled out the knob on the timer to give the machine time to “cool down”. This trick worked before I replaced the Timer. After a short time, I pushed the button on the timer back in. I heard the same buzzing sound as if something were trying to start. The sounded ended. The washer is dead now. Is there a fuse or something else that may have blown?

Erling B
February 2011

Yay!! I tested my washer, and it works like brand new! I also replaced the hot/cold water inlet valve, and the inlet water hoses, and there is no more leakage!

Jim - New Orleans
January 2011

I have a Kenmore series 90 which wouldn't spin or agitate. Here is my experience:

I needed a few old towels, a couple of buckets, a pair of plyers, a flathead screw driver, and a hammer.

I bought a coupler for $16.26 at an appliance parts store. I unhooked all three hoses from the back, and water poured out! First, TURN OFF THE WATER!! Then put some towels down under where the hoses connect to the washer, so that they will catch the water which comes out. Have a bucket handy to put the hoses in, after you unhook them from the machine, so that they can drip into the bucket. You will also want a towel handy to wipe your feet on, when you walk back into the house.

If a towel gets soaked with water, it is handy to have a second bucket to put the wet towel in.

I also got a stopper to put over the drain connection, after I unhooked the drain line. Basically, I found a rubber baton end, and it fit tightly over the connection. If you don't do that, dirty water will pour out of the drain connection when you turn the washer on its back.

There were two metal straps holding the pump on the bottom of the motor. I used a flat-blade screw driver to pop them loose, then I put them on the side. I unhooked the drain line from the outlet side of the pump, and hooked it behind the frame of the washer, so that the open end stayed up! (So it wouldn't pour out its dirty water!) I loosened the clamp holding the inlet hose , and then turned the pump clockwise (?), so that the pump was away from the motor, and also so that the outlet connection pointed up! (again, so nothing would drain out of it).

I then removed the two straps holding the pump on, and the pump easily came off of its bracket. (The motor is really heavy compared to the pump, and so you will think it is still connected, but it probably isn't; its weight is holding it in place.)

I then discovered that the coupler was broken into multiple pieces. One piece was still attached to the motor shaft; one piece was still attached to the shaft on the washing machine; and the rubber piece which connects the two pieces was off by itself. I used a flat head screw driver to pry the two pieces off of the two shafts, then I removed all debris.

I then installed the new coupler. I needed to first line up the coupler's hole with the washing machine shaft, and then lightly tap it down with a hammer. I then rotated the motor's shaft till it lined up with the coupler's other hole, and I then pressed the motor's shaft down into the coupler's as far as it would go. But I hardly made any progress by hand, so I had to lightly tap on the other end of the motor's shaft with a hammer, till the motor's shaft was all the way into the coupler's hole. I then snapped the two straps back onto the motor.

I then realigned the pump with the top of the motor and reconnected the drain line to it. I then rotated the motor's shaft to line up with the hole on the pump, and I pressed the pump down onto the shaft by hand. (I had to rotate the shaft some more with plyers as I was remounting the pump.) I got the pump remounted by hand (no need for a hammer here), and I then snapped the two straps back into place on the pump.

I haven't yet been able to test the repair, because my hot water connection is leaking. But I'll replace the hot/cold entry connections tomorrow.

As far as the vibrations spoken of by Victor D, my guess is that he didn't have the coupler mounted completely onto one or both shafts. Tap it lightly with a hammer till it's all the way down.

Jim - New Orleans
January 2011

Thanks a bunch to everyone. You'll saved me a ton of money and time and I look great in front of the wifey.

The instructions were perfect. By the way, the part number in the US is #285753A and cost $19.99 as of July 13, 2010.

WashDCer
July 2010

YUP!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc&feature=related
Excellent step-by-step DIY video!

pierwavohman
June 2010

My problem is, I have no agitation or spin cycle, but it does drain. I changed out the motor coupler, and then it worked for three loads, but is not working again. Is my clutch or transmission shot?

Scott R
April 2010

Thank you all for the information. I was able to fix my washer in about 1/2 hour at a cost of $18. The diagnosis and how-to was everything I needed. The you-tube video was also excellent showing exactly how to replace the coupler. But most of all, the suggestion to place the machine on its back made the job easy.
The video's method requires some disassembly of the machine. Not necessary. The machine is easy to tip over on its back due to the low center of gravity, and everything is easily accessible.

Mickeyaquarius
March 2010

I have replaced the coupler and I still have no spinning. I have replaced the coupler two times prior to this and never had this problem. When I turn on the machine in the spin cycle the coupler is spinning but the drum is not moving at all. The clutch is not spinning either. Any idea what could be causing this?

Scot16a
February 2010

Mine will spin but not agitate. Do I still look to replace the coupler?

Patrick
December 2009

Here is a video on how to fix or take apart a direct drive washer... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLPGs2UMUJc&feature=related

Todd
November 2009

Thank you S.Ko. and NB. $22 and 2 hours later I was up and running. The actual repair probably only took 30 min. it took 3 times as long to go buy the part. For those that do not want to read down here's what I did.

As NB said, I disconnected the hoses on the back and laid the machine on it's back. Then as S.Ko. said, disconnected two metal strips and lifted off the pump. Then unscrewed 2 screws and popped 2 more metal strips off. Then lifted out the motor, replaced the broken coupling with the new one. Now, works like a champ.

rm
May 2009

where are the instructions? i have the same problem, mine won't spin if it's loaded but i can't find how to take it apart. where is the "how to fix it post"?
thanks, George

George G
December 2008

Thanks for the tip, it worked like a charm. My Kenmore washer was purchased in 2005, model # 110-25652400. The part# in Canada is 285753 and it was $20.99 from the Sears repair depot.

jdf
July 2008

I followed the instructions and it worked for me too. Great solution, but now my washer makes a loud grinding noise when it is draining the water... Any advice on the grinding noise?

BK
January 2008

Where can I find a picture that shows me how to find the coupler on the internet?

alan
August 2007

I have this same problem, no agitation and no spin dry cycle but the motor does pump out the water.

Anyhow, following this advice I inspected my coupler but my coupler seems to be fine. I disconnected the motor and pulled off the coupler to inspect it, no breakage was seen.

So I plugged the washer back in and it just seems like the motor is not driving the coupler although it's vibrating the heck out of it. I try to move the coupler with a screwdriver and it turns so it's not like the motor can't turn the coupler it just isn't. Is the motor shot?

Victor D.
June 2007

I am a TV producer and I am looking for someone who has repaired an item using the help they found online. Does anyone in this washing machine forum have experience following online do-it-yourself directions? Please let me know if you are interested in sharing your story. Thank you!

Pam
June 2007

John, change your coupler. Read all of our responses, put the washer on its back....so,so easy that a woman can do it!

Mary in Baton Rouge
May 2007

I was just about to take the back panel off, then I thought this is much too hard so I went to this website. I found your great detailed answers. I turned over my washing machine, on its back. Found the broken plastic top part of the coupler. You guys/gals gave great instructions. It was SO EASY to repair my washing machine. I found the part for $13. Saved myself more than $100.

Mary in Baton Rouge
May 2007

I just wanted to say THANKS! I was able to repair my washer before my husband got home from work and surprise him!Yay! I just followed the simple instructions to replace the coupling! Now it's like brand new! Ü

Sonjia
January 2007

S. Ko's posting made it sound as easy as it turned out to be. The only thing was we didn't realize that the best way to get at the pump, motor and, therefore, the coupling was to lay the washer on its back and get at it from the bottom. We spent a couple of hours removing the back panel to discover we didn't need to, so learn from our mistake. Good luck!

NB
October 2006

We just found that it is quite easy to remove the motor and replace the coupler. Just remove the pump by popping out two metal straps that holds the pump in place, and then unscrew two screws on another pair of metal straps that holds the motor in place, and you will be able to replace the coupler (part#3364003)

S.Ko
March 2006

Yes just had the same problem the coupler cost 6 Dollars and the repairmen came out and charged me 134.00 dollars to fix the problem took them twenty minutes to do the job.....The breaking coupler is due to over loading the machine.....Dont over load and that machine will last twenty years...

George Ossa
February 2006

Hi John

Those are the signs of a broken motor coupler that connect the motor to the transmission. Take the cabinet off to see if you can see any signs of a bad coupler such as black dust of broken pieces of the coupler.

JP
May 2005