how do you replace a switch on a G3 kirby upright?

You first have to remove the handle assembly by depressing the rubber-boot-covered release at the base, then the bag assembly by pulling the rear end away from the body, then the top cover, then the rear plastic cover by removing the retaining screw in the lower rear, sliding it rearward and lifting the front of the cover to release the two front end catch arms, then forward to release the rear catch tab. Then remove the front cover, and the top bracket support assembly in that order. The underlying screws will become visible at each stage if you follow the proper order described above.

Then you can get to the switch. Mark the wires top, middle, lower middle and bottom so you can put them back properly. Remove the wires that connect to the switch and lift away the top bracket support assembly.

Then remove the foot pedal carefully, remove the screw that holds the switch in place, then slide the switch rearward and gently lift the switch, foot pedal and foot pedal arm up and away from the body.

You may have to depress the 2 safety switch arms so you can remove the switch but if you do it carefully there should be just enough clearance so you shouldn't have to do this. You should end up with 14 screws of various sizes. Some are Philips heads and some are star heads of 2 different sizes so you will need all 3 drivers plus a flat head screwdriver to gently pry and release the front cover and the switch to loosen and remove them more easily.

If you loosen the two parts first by prying them away with a flat-head screwdriver, you will be less likely to hurt yourself than when the parts you are tugging on with your hands could otherwise separate suddenly.

Fred Pulver, Advanced Systems, 970-963-0229
May 2010

Boss lady you are awesome. Now how do you fix the Kirby if the motor starts to run then it just dies. Does it need a new motor?
Andre'

sanders.andre@gmail.com

andre
April 2008

I have a parts/ supplies store on eBay called CLICK HERE FOR GREAT DEALS. (www.ebay.com) My eBay ID is b0sslady2001. If you have any questions or need parts, come see me!!! I will also be happy to answer any other Kirby repair questions you may have. Copy and paste the following into your address bar to visit my store....

http://stores.ebay.com/CLICK-HERE-FOR-GREAT-DEALS_W0QQsspagenameZMEQ3aFQ3aSTQQtZkm



TOOLS NEEDED:

G3 & G4 models>> Medium sized phillips screwdriver

G5, Gsix, Ultimate G models>> #15 Torx (star) screwdriver and a #20 Torx

SUGGESTED>> Masking tape to label lead wires for reassembly

DIRECTIONS: IMPORTANT!!!!>>>>(be sure that as you remove the screws, that you remember where they came from...lol) When I started, I arranged mine on a magnetic bowl so that I didn't lose track of where they went.


1) Remove the handle, cloth bag assembly and power nozzle from the machine

2) Turn the main unit around so that you are looking at the on/off switch and remove the screw that is right above the neutral/drive button (not underneath the machine, but on the rear between the on/off button and the N/D button)

3) Remove the smaller screw that holds the cord to the machine (located to the right, between where the handle plugs into the unit and the on/off switch) This requires the smaller Torx driver.

4) Insert the tip of the flathead screwdriver into the small open slot in the center of the "scuff plate" (the plastic trim piece) and pry gently upward to remove the plastic piece. Remove the two rear screws that are now visible that hold the aluminum shell on. (above the N/D button)

5) Turn the machine around so that you are looking at the fan case (front). Remove the top two screws, put the hood down and lift off the aluminum top shell. Now remover the two long screws at the top of the fan case that were uncovered when you took the top shell off.

6) The plastic on/off foot switch above the neutral/drive button will pop off easily...just grab it at the top and pull it off. There is a little metal arm/stick attached to the right side of it. The other end of this metal "stick" attaches to the switch and turns it on when the on/off button is pushed. It will just pull out of the side of the plastic on/off piece. It will fall down into the casing when you let go. This is ok for now, but you will have to hold it up when you drop the transmission so that it doesn't get in the way.

7) Turn the machine upside down and you will see four screws on the unpainted aluminum between the rear wheels. Remove the two screws nearest the rear wheels and the one closest to the front of the machine. DO NOT remove the middle rear screw. This is the one that holds the N/D button onto the machine and is a pain in the butt to get it back together.

8) Turn the machine back over and put the machine into drive mode by pushing the "D" side of the rear button down. (The transmission will not come out if it is in neutral) Grab the little metal stick that used to be connected to the plastic on/off switch and hold it up out of the way.

9) Pick up the Kirby and shake it. The transmission should basically just fall out. Make sure that you take note of the position of the small white transmission gears and how the tiny geared transmission belt is assembled so that you can get it back together correctly. Set aside.

10) Now remove the little metal stick/lever from the switch by holding it all the way up and pushing down on the end nearest the switch. It should come right out. Lay it aside.

11) Remove the silver aluminum frame that the hood and handle pivot (handle plug-in) are connected to by taking out the two rear screws above the rear wheels. Unplug the two little white wires from the switch. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE NOTE OF WHICH ONE GOES IN WHICH HOLE! These power the headlight. Set aside.

12) Take the screw out of the white carbon brush holder (the one on the right) and remove it. Unplug the other end from the switch and set aside. Remember that this carbon brush connects to the BOTTOM prong. If you switch these wires when reassembling, your Kirby will actually RUN BACKWARDS (not good at all!!!) :0)

13) Unplug the other white wire from the bottom prong of the switch.

14) Turn the machine so that you are looking at the side that the cloth bags connects to. Remove the screw from the little plastic box that covers the machine end of the power cord. Take the cover off (the flathead screwdriver will be useful here also...use it to push the cover to the right, unseating the little plastic tabs that help hold it on) and unplug the cord from the machine.

15) There is one more screw at the top of the switch that holds it in place. Remove this screw and the switch should come off by pushing it/sliding it toward the rear of the machine. You may need to use the flathead in the crack at the top in the front of the switch between the switch and the case to jiggle/pry the switch loose, as it can be a bit stubborn.

16) Put the new switch on by pushing it forward, making sure that the little activator buttons in the front go smoothly through the rectangular hole in the fan case. Be careful when doing this, as the little activator buttons are delicate and can be broken easily when installing. Replace the screw at the top that holds it on.

17) Plug the wire that comes from the left carbon brush holder onto the bottom prong of the switch. Replace the right carbon brush, secure it with the screw, and plug it onto the top prong of the switch.

18) This is a good time to put the little metal "stick" back in that activates the switch when the on/off button is pushed. Just snap it back in the same way you removed it. When it is connected, again... let it fall down into the casing. You will have to hold it up out of the way when you reinstall the transmission.

19) Reinstall the aluminum frame (w/hood attached) and insert the screws in the back. This is the most difficult part of getting it all back together because of the two headlight wires that plug into the switch. I have found (after much cursing and sweating) that it may be easier to plug the leads into the switch first and then put the part back on. If this doesn't work for you, you will need needlenose pliers, as the workspace is very limited. Secure the front of the frame by replacing the long screws at the top of the fan case.

20) HOLD THE LITTLE METAL "STICK" up out of the way and reinstall the transmission. It seems to be easier for me if I pick up the machine rightside-up and simply set it down over the tramsmission. If the "D" button is still pressed down, a little wiggling should make the transmission go right back into place. You will have to drop it again slightly to get the little geared belt back onto the gears where it belongs. IMPORTANT>>> There is a little "fork" on the left side of the transmission that HAS TO connect with the little short "peg" (G3, G4) or the "slot" (G5, G6, Ult. G) on the left side of the handle pivot. If you do not seat the fork, the transmission will not work. Secure with screws on the bottom of the casing.

21) Pick up the plastic on/off button and insert the metal "stick" into the hole on the right side. Snap the piece back on.

22) Replace the top shell and secure front and rear with screws.

23) Plug the power cord into the side and replace the cover with the screw.

24) Replace the plastic "scuffplate" cover, making sure that the two tabs in the front are correctly positioned to hold the front of it down to the metal shell. Make sure that you put the plastic tab that is attached to the power cord UNDERNEATH the scuffplate with the holes lined up BEFORE snapping it into place. Replace the screw that holds the cord and the screw at the bottom above the N/D switch

HAPPY VACUUMING!!!
b0sslady2001 (Marci)

Marci (b0sslady2001)
June 2007